finally i got the photo i always wanted to get today!!!! i see rainbows every single day. some in the mountains, some in the valleys, and most in the ocean. after every single wave i go over, i see a beautiful rainbow! so i grab my camera and get the shot! don’t you just love it? i sure do.

and when i left my house this morning, i seen a rainbow following me to waikiki.

it followed me all the way there! isn’t that amazing?

so good to see the movie industry booming here in hawaii. they are filming yet another season of Hawaii Five-O. this is bringing billions of dollars to our industry

just watching Hawaii Five-O makes me realize how beautiful this island is.

went for a morning surf with Higeta-san. super cool surfer from japan who loves to surf. first time to hawaii so i’m sure he was super stoked to catch all those good waves he did!

then surfed with Hikaru-san in the afternoon. the biggest waves she ever surfed!

the waves all day were totally perfect! off shore and barreling! many unridden waves and lots of aloha. everybody giving waves to everybody. this is unheard of in other parts of the world.

for the next few days, i’m going to research waves, weather, dives, flights, and places. then i’m jumping on a flight to somewhere. and if you asked me where i’m going, your guess will be better than mine because i have no idea. haha. but this is just the surf report for El Salvador next week. looking so dam good! in fact, it’s going to be epic!

i’ve been surfing with Ikuko-san for a couple of years. when ever she comes, the waves are usually knee high. yesterday, it was pretty big. i knew she was nervous, but it’s my job to calm people down. one way is to yell “relax!!! breath!!!” haha. how can you relax and breath going over a mountain like this?

once we got out, the only way in is to ride a wave. it was Ikuko-san’s first big wave experience. so stoked for her!

and paddling out was challenging. challenging but beautiful. look at this awesome rainbow!

another wave, another day, and another memory. nice photo!

i also taught Ikuko-san how to throw the board and dive under the wave. she did a great job! she went from knee high surfer to overhead surfer in one day. see you again on wednesday!

i caught a wave and had a blast! took off and tried to grab rail to get into the barrel.

then did a cutback to the right.

then put my toes on the nose.

then kicked out and tried to get barreled on the next wave. i think i’m having too much fun out there.

this is the very reason i don’t like to teach people how to turtle dive. i teach people to go over the wave or dive under. if you turtle dive in too shallow water, you can hit your head on the reef and knockout. i took this photo just to demonstrate how dangerous it is. and when i seen this photo, i couldn’t believe how close my head was to the reef!!! i could have knocked out myself. haha.

Yesterday @ The Lagoon!
Good morning 6am.
Chest high at Ala Moana. Clean.
Shoulder high at Diamond Head. Windy.
Trade winds at 15mph.
Rainy morning, sunny and lots of rainbows later.
Surfing all day.
See you in the water!