Morning session.
Photo by Todasan.

Toda-san’s been coming to hawaii for years but this is the first time there are waves on the south shore in october. he keeps asking me “why?” thanks to el nino. check out this perfect wave!

been riding my single fin recently so always fun surfing.

usually in october, the waves on the south shore are flat. flat waves so good for diving. this october is terrible for diving. one part of me wants the waves to continue, and another part of me wants it to go flat. then i can call up the boys and hit our holes.

last, here is one of the sunset photos i took in shonan. no photoshop, these are the true colors of beautiful japan! i just love it!

Blackfish?
Good morning 6am.
Waist high at Ala Moana. Clean.
Chest high at Diamond Head. Nice.
North shore 2-4′ and clean.
Weird wind today.
Rainy morning becoming sunny and warm.
Going to the ocean.
Have a wonderful day!