Wednesday November26日 2025年

October 10, 2015 Hawaii Surf Report

Asian Traffic Jam.
Good morning 5:30am.
Ala Moana shoulder high and perfect.
Diamond Head head high and good.
Light trade winds at 10mph.
Super sunny and very warm.
Surfing all day!
Have a wonderful day!

North Shore Shark Attack!

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if you all didn’t hear by now, there was another shark attack on the north shore of oahu this morning.
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right at the famous spot Leftovers. a tiger shark bit off a surfers leg.
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this is the kid that got attacked. if it wasn’t for the quick response of other surfers, he wouldn’t be alive. surfers saving surfers. wish him the fastest recovery!
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had an awesome time with Mr. and Mrs. Morishita-san today. they’ve been coming to hawaii 10 years and surfed for the first time 2 years ago. somebody else taught them how to surf and it wasn’t a good experience. in fact, it was a very bad experience. so they decide to quit coming to hawaii and went to bali last year instead. then this year, they wanted revenge. so they kind of put some pressure on me. i knew before we paddled out that if they have a bad experience, they would quit hawaii and quit surfing. luckily, everything went perfectly as planned. they caught some amazing long waves and i could tell by their facial expressions that they will be coming to hawaii for many more years to come. so happy!
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and the 10 times they came to hawaii, they always ate at the restaurants in guidebooks. today, we went somewhere else. and they told me it was the best meal they ever had in hawaii. i couldn’t believe it!!! haha.
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also took them to this not so famous shave ice in town. best on the island and they said they will never go out to the north shore to eat shave ice any more. haha. i was happy to show them a new hawaii and new surfing style. Mr. and Mrs. Morishita-san found the real hawaii today. hopefully no more bali and way more hawaii from now!
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been surfing with Toda-san and Takami-san a lot. not just on this trip to hawaii, but on many trips throughout the year. they are family to me and we always have good times together. Maki-san sent me this photo she took yesterday and said it was “the photo of the day.” i think it’s the “photo of the year!” haha.

Surfing Japan: Crowded!

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driving on the roads in hawaii, you just don’t know what you’ll see. a helicopter??? omg! i was tripping out!
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just downloaded the 737 photos off my camera. check out surfing culture in japan. pretty crowded!!!!
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and evening sitting on the beach in chigasaki gazing at Mt. Fuji. when ever i see Mt. Fuji, i get the chills. memories of my grandpa and grandma stories climbing it. and memories of my personal goal hiking to the top. an amazing journey it was. give me some time and i’ll upload many more photos i took in japan.
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and i’m still watching GoPro shares drop and drop. for the past year, the value of GoPro went down 70%. that’s crazy!!! now hearing rumors of Apple buying up GoPro? why not at this discounted price? Apple should take it over, restructure it, make it user friendly, and have GoPro sync with the iPhone. then it would be worth the buy.