had another great surfing session with Aoi this morning. watching this kid getting better and better each week is awesome. the waves were perfect this morning!

south swell in october? yes, everybody enjoying it. locals too as John getting the best waves of the day.

Mike Akima bottom turn. perfect glassy conditions.

got out of the water at 10:30am and right back in. been training these girls how to be independent surfers so i just throw them in the water and let them grow.

Toda-san and Takami-san joined us for a weekend boat trip.

waves were super fun like always. can’t complain when we have the whole ocean to ourselves. just taking turns enjoying each wave by wave. Toda-san on a nice one!

Takami-san doesn’t like crowds. nobody does. so jumping on a boat and looking for a spot where nobody surfs is total happiness!

been taking these 2 girls surfing ever since they were babies. i must have pushed them into a thousand waves. but now, i tell them “you’re on your own.” they are old enough to catch waves for themselves. and in order to catch waves on your own, you have to wipe out once in a while. here is one girl wiping out once in a while.

here is the other girl wiping out once in a while. haha. i just sit on the side and laugh my head off!!! haha!!! someday they will learn, and someday they will become independent surfers.

as for me, i had my fair share of wipeouts these past 40 years. now, i just time it right and enjoy each ride. pretty simple.

can you believe it was 33C today??? omg, it’s summer all of a sudden again!!!
tomorrow i will be in the ocean all day long. not a bad place to have your office. have a wonderful night!

8:45am: Aoi Nakamura @ Bowls
Good waves.
Good rides.
Good fun.

Yoshiyuki-san on a great wave! this wave doubled up so he was going twice as fast. i was on the side yelling “look forward!!!!!” he rode this one all the way to the wall!

Sanae-san surfed good too! don’t you just love diamond head in the back??? i do.

great job guys! see you again next year!!!

found these photos online and wanted to share it. all the Moniz kids started long boarding as kids. no, they didn’t just jump on a short board, they started on the long board. and that’s the reason they got so good so fast. you can learn much faster the basics on a long board so when it’s time to short board, it’s super easy. check out Joshua Moniz hang 5 at about 5 years old. haha.

Seth Moniz was a little ripper. probably the smallest kid in the world doing tricks like this. just natural talent. and 3 older brothers and 1 older sister pushing him to his limit.

the kids use to win every contest they entered. so my advice to all beginner surfers: start off with a long board. get the basics down, then go shorter little by little. that’s the best way to surf like a champion in less time.

a surfers cake. i love it!