gosh, it seems like years ago but it was just a month ago when Tou-san came to hawaii and surfed the biggest waves of her life. amazing photo!

and Hashimoto-san too. surfing 3 days of big waves!

there were 2 shark sightings yesterday in waikiki. i still don’t understand why it makes such big news. where there’s ocean, there are sharks. almost every single time i dive in waikiki, i see sharks. should i call the news and report it too? don’t think so. i have a good idea. they should just post these signs on every single beach on our island. and maybe every single beach in the world. where there is ocean, there are sharks. where there are cars, there are accidents. where there are guns, there are shootings. where there are dogs, there are attacks. this is just a part of everyday life. my nephew asked me the other day “uncle, do you think everything happens for a reason?” my answer always has been “yes, everything happens for a reason. some good, some bad. if good, ride it. if bad, deal with it. it will eventually make you a better person.”

well, i should be half way here by now. it’s so amazing how you can read one book and get so inspired. going back decades before it gets destroyed!

HNL to LAX

check out this photo i took the other day! super cool turtle cleaning station. turtles come into the fish schools to have them clean the algae off them. so cool to watch. so stoked to take my all time best turtle photo!

check out this breakfast i ate yesterday. i was craving steak and eggs. this one was a juicy filet mignon cooked medium rare.

finally decided to travel. i was supposed to leave last week thursday but stayed in hawaii because of 2 reasons. one was the big south swell. staying here was the smartest move of my surfing life. if i didn’t stay, i would have been less 30 barrels in my life. that would suck. second was because of the super hurricane off mexico. didn’t want to fly through something like that. tried to go to asia but all flights are totally full. so i picked up my book last night and now i better study spanish right now. going to hang to in mexico and then off to another country so deep that nobody speaks english. no english, no internet, no phone, and no experience. haha. i’m looking for some total culture shock and i can’t wait!

come tomorrow, i’ll be watching the sunset and sunrise from another side of the world! bon voyage! opps, i mean Adios Amigos!