North Shore Starting soon!
Good morning 6am.
Ala Moana chest high and perfect.
Diamond Head shoulder high and perfect.
Super good conditions.
No wind.
Super sunny.
Going flying.
Have a wonderful day!

had an awesome afternoon surfing with Aoi. so stoked to see his progression. after each wave, i try to encourage him to do better and better. he’s a very good listener and it’s showing in his surfing.

the key to surfing better backside is to stay low. keep your knees bent on the bottom turn just like this.

so when you go up the wave, your knees are still bent enough for you to extend off the top.

this is where you push the tail. towards the end of the session, i seen Aoi get some really good backside snaps in. bigger sprays off the top and it must have felt good because it looked good. good surfing today kid!

and i had a blast surfing too. after i got back home tonight, i realized that my body is over surfed. just so tired and needs a break. so hey, i’m taking a break from the ocean starting tomorrow. yes, i know there are 2 more south swells on the way but i’m pretty sure i had enough.

the drive back in is always so amazing. the perfect way to end a perfect day. 2 surf sessions today with lots of good rides.

good job Aoi. just remember what we talked about today. focus on that and you will succeed!

here it is! the official poster boy Seth Moniz for the Vans HIC Pro at Sunset Beach which starts on october 28th. the is circulation around the world as every aspiring pro will enter this event to qualify for the triple crown of surfing. a big start to the big winter season. congratulations Seth! and hope you win it!

so stoked to plant something and watch it grow everyday. now it’s so big, healthy, and blooming. i don’t even have to look if it’s flowering because as soon as i open my door, i can smell the sweet gardenias.

then i bring some into the house and make my house smell so good.

how much do you have to save each day to have $1M at age 65? look at this graph and you can figure it out. it’s totally possible. but the sad thing is when you turn age 65, you can’t even buy a house in hawaii for $1M.
last, if you’re old like me, you will know about Fate Yanagi. if you don’t, that means you are too young, or you don’t know the deep roots of hawaiian culture. Fate Yanagi is probably the most sought out girl ever since the 1970’s. “Tell Fate Yanagi I love her, tell Fate Yanagi I need her, tell Fate Yanagi no go cry, or no go out, with Mits Funai.” haha. i know that whole song word for word by heart.
[youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XLNAQ1-rmPk[/youtube]