Nature is Wonderful!
Good morning 6:40am.
South shore swell continues!! OMG!
Perfect head high at Ala Moana.
Perfect overhead at Diamond Head.
No wind so epic conditions.
Super sunny and warm. Just like summer.
Going surfing.
Have a wonderful day!

yesterday was amazing. couldn’t have timed the surf and sessions any better. looked at bowls on the way out and it had a morning sickness bump on the waves. so we went searching for something cleaner.

Carter, Reid, Yuko-chan, and i enjoyed the whole morning to ourselves. just taking turns laughing, surfing, and ripping. nothing beats surfing a perfect south swell with just a few friends.

Carter with the hand in the water epic bottom turn.

Reid with the epic backside grab rail barrel ride.

Yuko-chan on the epic frontside hand drag bottom turn. it’s amazing how fun the waves were. after our 3.5 hour session, we pulled up anchor and headed back to the harbor because everybody had things to do in the afternoon.

Reid’s new toy. the classic old school Penn reel.

and the old school lure. something will bite this for sure!

on the way back to the harbor, we stopped by Big Rights to check out the waves and the boys. super stoked to see Ronnie Yamada and the boys out so we decided to jump in, say hello, and just catch one wave each. right as we got to the lineup, the waves turned ON! super big sets, super good swell direction, and super good winds producing the biggest barrels! i got barreled on my first wave, paddled back out, and asked Reid “hey, can you reschedule your afternoon appointment?” he went back to the boat, made a phone call, and rescheduled. we ended up surfing the best 3 hours of perfect waves. i lost count on my barrels after 10 as every single wave was barreling big time! it was super empty so we scored! one of the top 5 best all time sessions of my 30 years of surfing Big Rights. i was so stoked!

then passed by Bowls on the way back in. super crowded and very dirty water. yuck.

bodyboarder finding the shade.

Mike Akima on a good one.
well, 2 more south swells this week. north swell this week. east swell this week. waves everywhere with perfect off shore winds. hard to leave paradise right now!

omg! check out this biggest hurricane ever recorded about to hit mexico! el nino continues.

waking up to this is depressing. another sailboat bites the dust. more reef killed, more gas and oil in the ocean, and more headaches. they should close the ala wai channel at night when the waves get big like this. it happens just way to often.

but great to wake up to another amazing day of big surf! the waves still pumping! huge ground swells making this one of the best swells of the season.

here’s the sequence of the day. went to run away from the crowds yesterday morning. surfed with friends for 3 hours and had a blast. had it to ourselves! we were taking turns and having so much fun. figuring out the waves, and figuring out how to make the best out of the wave. Reid setting up for the epic backside power snap.

this is where you want to be when you torque your body. on the top of the wave putting all your weight on the back foot. knees bent so when it’s time to extend, you can push the tail as hard as you want.

just like this.

and when you complete the turn, it feel so freaking great! awesome surfing Reid!

we were out on the boat from 7:30am to 4:30pm. totally unplanned. just went out for a quick morning session but ended up surfing 2 sessions totaling more than 6 hours. yesterday was one of my best surfing days ever. just to have fun with friends and getting barreled all day is like a dream come true. a dream i will never ever forget! oh, and coming back into the harbor watching Legend World Champion Derek Ho getting barreled was awesome.

when i got home at 5:30pm, all i wanted to do was eat and sleep. but, i made plans with my middle school classmates at 6:30. one drink lead to another and the next thing you know, i had a lot of Don Julio Tequila in my stomach. at 2am, i was feeling like a world champion surfer. haha. thank you to all my friends yesterday for the wonderful time. let’s do it all over again!