Tuesday February17日 2026年

September 30, 2015 Hawaii Surf Report


Wow! Two New Typhoons forming last night? Maybe I’ll be a lucky man?
Good morning5am.
Waist high with some chest high sets at Ala Moana. Clean.
Shoulder high at Diamond Head. Windy.
Trade winds at 25mph.
Sun, clouds, showers, and rainbows!
Going surfing and airport!
Have a wonderful day!

Surf and Pay it Forward!

Iwata
want to thank Mama and Papa Iwata-san for these wonderful gifts!
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i will surely use these! chopsticks made in japan. cool!
Niwa
want to thank Niwa-san for the senbei. i ate half already. haha.
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want to thank Hikaru-san for the avocados. can’t wait for it to get ripe!
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want to thank Mid-Pac for all the goodies. i will take it on my flight to japan and eat it all!
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want to congratulate Rei-kun for doing his best at his first contest ever. i’m sure he was nervous. everybody is but once you get past the nerves, everything will be alright.
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Kaneko-san and Rei-kun in chiba this past weekend. my cool surfer friends!
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yesterday was cool. you can see the dirty water and clean water line. it was moving around all morning long and so were we.
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on the left was Nakamoto-san and i surfing in the clean water. on the right were a few crazy surfers that didn’t know what was going on. they were surfing in the poop. this line is very interesting because this is usually where the sharks like to hang out. and this is where i like to hang out because nobody else does this. that means, very uncrowded clean wave surfing.
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Nakamoto-san caught any and every wave he wanted. he said he rode 6 months of waves. i just kept him in the clean side all morning long.
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clean water surfing when it’s supposed to be dirty. these are the days you can score the best session of your life. Nakamoto-san surfed here so many times and couldn’t understand why nobody was out. then when i told him why, he felt so lucky. yes, he’s very lucky. look how perfect the conditions were!!!
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and of course, i had to get a few for myself too.
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had so much fun this morning with Niwa-san. omg, we surfed for so long! super good waves, super good rides, and super energetic girl.
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we went to eat pho. before we walked in, i seen my friend Ray outside waiting for his take out. we said hello and that was it. after Niwa-san and i finished eating, i asked for the check. the owner told me “your friend paid for you guys.” what???? he said “yeah, your friend you saw earlier came in and paid for both of your lunch and left.” OMG! thank you so much Ray! i really appreciate your kindness. then i was telling Niwa-san that this is the aloha we have here in hawaii. that’s why i love it so much! it’s time to pay it forward. can’t wait!

September 29, 2015 Hawaii Surf Report

I miss Japanese surf culture. Maybe see you guys this week?
Good morning 6:10am.
Knee high at Ala Moana.
Chest high at Diamond Head.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sun, clouds, showers, rainbows.
Going surfing.
Have a wonderful day!