woke up this morning and seen Hurricane Guillermo heading right our way! expect crazy winds and heavy rain on thursday. hopefully i don’t have to work on that day.

had a super surf day with Takei-san. super cool guy who’s friends with Ushikoshi’s group “the Dumpers.” we surfed for 5.5 hours in the perfect day with absolutely no clouds blocking the sun. but the end of the day, we were super sunburnt.

after our morning session, we were super hungry so it was prime rib time.

we ate one each! super juicy and super tender. oh, and super cheap.

there is nowhere else on this island or maybe in this world you can find a fine thick juicy piece of meat like this for this price. we both gained some weight today.

then went to wash our steak down with Waiola Shave Ice. shave ice cup with azuki beans and ice cream. gained a few more pounds.

at first, Takei-san didn’t want to eat shave ice because he only tried the shave ice from the famous place on the north shore and didn’t like it. i told him, “no, this place is different. Waiola is the best.” after he took his first bite, he agreed.

then we went to surf for a couple more hours. super fun waves all day!

biggest news today was Hiroto Ohhara’s big win at the U.S Open. the first time a japanese has ever won a major event in the history of surfing. stoked for this kid, and stoked for japan!

AT&T just got caught ripping off their own customers. purposely slowing down the data for their loyal customers. i was a loyal customer and once i heard this, i quit. it hurts to find out you’ve been getting ripped off by your cell phone carrier for 10 years. and they didn’t even have the balls to say sorry.

went to throw football with the kid last night. i couldn’t believe how strong his arm was! he would throw a perfect spiral football right to my chest. the next Marcus Mariota?

is this real or fake?
anyway, surfed all day today and will do tomorrow too. have a beautiful evening and good night. it’s not even 8pm but i’m going to sleep. going to sleep with a smile. goodnight.

A JAPANESE STAR IS BORN!
Men’s Vans US Open of Surfing
Men’s Qualifying Series #16 10,000 points.
$100,000USD
WINNER: HIROTO OHHARA

watching the kids improve session by session is a treat. i give a little advice and let the kids just take it from there. if they want it, they can get it. simple. this little surfer girl is finally riding the wave in the right place.

and watching this kid Aoi surfing every single day just trying and trying to get better is cool. it’s fun just watching him improve wave by wave. i always check to see if he’s on the right equipment for his level of surfing and try to help him out as much as i can.

last night i dig under my house and look for something that would suit him. i find Seth’s magic board he rode when he was Aoi’s age. i clean it up, take it to the beach, and let Aoi try it. from the first wave i watched him ride, i knew it was magic.

hey Aoi, i hope you like your new board. just to let you know that Seth won major contests on that very same board. take care of it and you will soon be surfing like Seth. see you in the water!

and speaking of Seth Moniz, a huge interview just came out on surfline. i read it, looked at the photos, and had tears in my eyes. my little nephew is growing up. omg!

and of all the amazing surfing photos in the interview, this one was my favorite. the Moniz kids are like my own kids. i watched them grow up all these wonderful years and had the most amazing experiences with all of them. and now to see them shining in the spotlight, it makes me a very proud uncle. ahhhh, tears coming again. better go.
CLICK HERE FOR SETH MONIZ INTERVIEW ON SURFLINE!