Friday November21日 2025年

August 2, 2015 Hawaii Surf Report


My new love: Nectar IPA, India Pale Ale. 6.7% Alcohol. So good!
Good morning 6am.
Small waves today.
Waist high at Ala Moana. Clean.
Chest high at Diamond Head. Windy.
Waikiki knee high and clean.
Trade winds at 15mph.
Sunny and warm summer day.
Surfing all day.
See you in the water!

Braveheart Kid

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omg, had a super fun time this morning with Kishi-san and his cute kid Yugo-kun. last year was his first time surfing at a tender age of 6 years old. this year at 7, he was so excited to get his first wave!
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we kept riding and riding so many good waves.
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i started surfing at this age the same exact way. a memory i remember clearly 40 years later.
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Kishi-san caught some really nice waves too. super good balance and super good surfing.
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then Yugo-kun says “i want to surf by myself.” really???? so i give him his own board, i explain to him what to do, and he had so much determination as we waited for a wave.
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first ride perfect! omg, this kid is so brave!!!! he was so cute and everybody told me after “what a brave kid!” gosh, this photo is priceless!
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i still had the camera rolling when he finished the wave. i truly believe that surfing brings out a pure smile and this is the perfect example of that. good job Yugo-kun! you’re a very brave kid!
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and of course, i had to congratulate this young kid for doing such a great job today!
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then we came back to the beach and enjoyed the perfect weather in hawaii.
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a kid just being a kid. haha.
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then us hungry surfers went to eat pho. same place as last year because Yugo-kun loved it!
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then i went to take the high school kids out for an afternoon session. another 5 hour surf day and i’m totally satisfied again! same thing tomorrow so better get going to sleep. goodnight from hawaii!

OMG! Crazy!

[youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xkT0WkIB8D8[/youtube]