super mom Namami-san yesterday on some beautiful waves! gosh, this woman has a lot of motivation to get good really fast! all she thinks about is surfing! good surfing Nanami-san! blue skies continue.

look how beautiful the water is! so clean that it looks like you’re surfing right on the reef.

what is glassy? japan river mouths are glassy. the right river flow, the right wind, and the right swell. the perfect combination for perfect conditions.

was stoked to see Shintaro-san in shikoku. super cool guy and good surfer.

Shintaro-san in the most epic conditions you will ever dream of. he was surfing the lefts all by himself.

nice turn Shintaro-san.

just looking at any japanese boat fascinates me. so basic and so strong.

when it rains hard, all kinds of things from the mountains come flying out through the river mouths. don’t be surprised if you’re pulling into a barrel and get hit by a 40′ tree. ouch! not the safest kind of surfing for sure.

gosh, i miss the 500 yen or $4 lunch sets in shikoku.

UFC 190 tonight at 7pm Hawaii Time!
Good morning 6am.
Waist high with chest high sets at Ala Moana. Little bumpy but cleaner later.
Diamond Head chest high and windy.
Trade winds at 25mph.
Showers, clouds, wet morning. Sunny later.
Surf all day!
Have a wonderful day!

had a great time surfing with Sou-san this morning. super cool surfer from Yokohama.

was stoked to see him riding super long waves. and was also stoked to hear that he’s surfed in the Maldives too.

peace Sou-san. thank you for the awesome surf session!

if i have my camera out and somebody rides past me, i usually take a photo. so i took this photo because i thought it was so beautiful!

and of course, i have to get my fair share too. just riding a wave makes me so happy!

thank you Kesuke family for the perfect soup for my raw egg over my rice breakfast.

and thank you Atsuko-san for the sweet ume that will go good in my rice balls.

then surfed afternoon with Nanami-san so total 5 hours in the water today. waves absolutely perfect! then came home, sat the kid down, and talked about our awesome day. he told me he had fun hanging out at my house playing games. i was happy to come home and see him.

after 1 week of searching for these two 14 year old boys off florida, the coast guard called off their search. the parents are getting attacked by social media for letting them go out into the ocean alone. come to find out, they were supposed to only stay in the lake. but boys will be boys. when i first got my drivers license and car at 15 years old, my mom told me not to leave hawaii kai. first day, i picked up my friends and drove to the north shore. i ended up crashing into the guard rail going 70mph on the way home on the freeway. luckily nobody go hurt. like i said, boys will be boys. we are just born to be wild. as for the 2 missing kids, i just hope they drifted to some island far away and will be rescued soon. it’s so sad because it could have been anyones kids.