Solid 5′ South Swell!
Good conditions and many waves!
So fun!!!

another trip, another forgotten post? time is just flying so i don’t even remember what was what and when was when. these are photos from my July trip to japan chasing typhoon 12. seems like years ago!!!

the first good day of the year and i was stoked to be a part of it. check out how perfect the waves were!

had a super good time surfing with Matchi everyday. we’ve been chasing typhoons for 23 years so it’s just another wave produced by another typhoon. nice bottom turn Matchi!

if there were another place i’d want to live in besides hawaii and japan, it would have to be here inside the tube. i can’t get enough.

surfing secret local spots with absolutely no tourists. opps, except me. it took me 23 years to figure it out and i’m still learning. but the most important thing in surfing heavy localized spots in the world comes down to two words, RESPECT LOCALS.

imagine pulling up to this spot with nobody out? i seriously had to look around and see if someone was playing a joke on us or something. it was no joke as Matchi and i were exchanging barrels after barrels. i still can’t believe how lucky we were.

and always stoked to surf with my beautiful friend in japan. what a small wonderful world we live in!

Awesome!
Good morning 6:10am.
New South swell!
Solid head high with overhead sets at Ala Moana. Perfect!
Diamond Head 4′ and good.
Light East winds at 5mph.
Sunny, clouds, rain, and warm.
Going surfing!
Have a wonderful day!