9:55am @ Ala Moana.
Solid atama han or 5′ Hawaiian size.
Super clean conditions.
Super blue sky and light winds.
Super fun.
Super hard.
Super happy.
Super dream!

getting out to the lineup yesterday was pretty hard. some solid 4-5′ sets breaking on our heads but we managed to get out and wait for the sets.

Hashimoto-san is a very tuff surfer. very determined to get out each and every time. one huge freak set broke on our heads and even i had to throw my board and dive under. getting tougher and tougher wave by wave.

here i am on the side again yelling “LOOK FORWARD!!!”

was so stoked to see Hashimoto-san surfing 10x better than last year. i love to see improvements and it makes me so happy to see the pure stoke!

of course i had to get a few of my own. i left hawaii surfing epic waves, and now i’m back surfing epic waves. just loving the perfect timing of precious mother nature!

i was given a DVD a few days ago. i watched it last night and loved it! it’s about the samurai lifestyle. a lifestyle i always dream to live someday. most people say “no way, it’s not going to happen.” but i still believe it will someday.

i’m so fascinated by the way the samurai once lived. pretty much live and die by the sword. i would give anything to go back 100 years and live that kind of lifestyle.

and i would sit on my tatami everyday looking outside into my garden of bonsai plants. then i would have my yamato nadeshiko pamper me all day long. then when it’s time to fight with my sword, i’d be ready to die! opps, sorry. i just finished reading the samurai book by Musashi Miyamoto, and i just watched this movie. i better wake up and get back to the real life we live in now. haha.

Beautiful Art!
Good morning 6am.
South swell continues.
Ala Moana solid overhead and little bumpy.
Diamond Head 4′ and nice.
Light East winds at 5mph.
High tide in the morning.
Super sunny and very warm.
Water temperature: 82F.
Air temperature: 100F.
Keep cool and go surfing.
Have a wonderful day!