ok, here is the rest of the story about yesterday’s session. i know Tou-san is a very energetic surfer because i surfed with her before and she kept on going and going strong. so when we pulled up to the beach and seen the big waves, i was confident that she would be fine. it was so big that there were only a couple of surfers out on a saturday morning. normally, it would be packed!

from the first wave, Tou-san surfed great! great concentration, great control, great balance, and great rides. and actually, riding the wave was the easy part. the hard part was getting back out.

Tou-san must have dove under a hundred waves or more. some huge ones too but just kept on progressing forward. i kept on telling her “swim, swim, swim!” my surfer girl friend paddled up to me and said “kirby, you’re so mean to her!” i told her, “this girl is strong! i know she can do it! so we’re going to do it!” then she paddled away and said “you’re mean!” haha. then i started to feel bad so i asked Tou-san, “are you ok?” she looked at me and said “yes i’m ok, i want more!”

when i picked up Tou-san from her hotel, i asked her what the biggest wave she’s gone out in. she told me “about head high.” i told her, “well, today is your lucky day. it’s way over head high so get ready to ride the biggest wave of your life!” look good at this photo and you can see how big this wave is. see that little guy peaking over the mountain? Tou-san told me that none of her surfer friends in japan would believe her. well, photos don’t lie. this wave was solid 5′ hawaiian scale and Tou-san was smiling off the takeoff. wanted to say hi to my chigasaki firefighter friends. and also want to say that your coworker is a very brave girl. welcome to the world a new big waver!

Dream Big Kid!
Good morning 6am.
PERFECT SURF!
Solid overhead at Ala Moana. Epic!
3-5′ at Diamond Head. Epic!
No wind so perfect glassy conditions.
Super sunny and warm.
Endless summer!
Going surfing.
Have a wonderful day!

got friends from japan sending me the forecast for next weeks typhoon. some say good, most say so so. like always, everyday is a different day. i go on my friends expert knowledge and instinct. we shall know much better come monday. as for now, it’s anybody’s guess. keep me posted boys!

omg, had a super heavy session with Tou-san this morning. a firefighter from chigasaki and today was the test of her life. the biggest waves she’s ever surfed and the most biggest waves pushing us to our limits. the waves where super big and super strong! there were only a few that made it out past the breakers and Tou-san was one of them. a super tough girl with lots of energy and will. good job girl!

once you duck dove under 40 or more waves, you would make it to the outside if you have the energy left. and once you get out there, you can wait your turn to ride mountains. we were catching waves past the red buoy today so that’s the 5′ plus or 10′ faces indicator.

this kid paddled up to me and said “do you know Kobayashi-san from Selection Surf Shop?” i said “yeah, i know Kobayashi-san from Nagoya!” turns out, Kobayashi-san sponsors this kid. good kid and good surfer.

there was a Kalani High School volleyball fundraiser car wash at kahala mall today. Seth Moniz pulled up to get his truck washed and all the girls were turning red and giggling. trying to get a photo of him and trying to have a chat. see, Seth is the most famous kid right now in hawaii. i’m sure his truck was washed pretty dam good. pretty funny.

then it was my turn. nobody knows me so i felt lonely. haha. just joking. happy to see my nephew Seth taking the time out of his busy day to support local athletics here in hawaii.

this past trip to tohoku was magical. so magical that when i came back to hawaii, i had tears of joy rolling down my face thinking about all the great things happening. if you compared my thoughts four years ago to today, it will be the total opposite. i’m so joyful, i’m so happy, and i’m so stoked for each and every one of our tohoku friends. we all come from all walks of life, but after it’s all said and done, We Are All One! photo at the wonderful Ryoko-san family house.

someday when i get old, i’m going to write a book of my personal experiences with japan and the wonderful people i’ve met. i’ve watched babies becoming kids. i’ve watched kids becoming adults. i’ve experienced this for the past 25 years of my life making it more than half my lifetime. people ask me if i have family in japan. i have more than family in japan, i have families in japan. once again, i’m a new uncle to this cute little baby named Taito-kun. now i get to watch him grow and i’m looking forward to each and every time i see him. he’ll definitely be a chapter in my new book of life. welcome to this beautiful world buddy!