For Sale: $3.3 Million
Good morning 5:30am.
Ala Moana chest high sets and perfect.
Waikiki waist high and perfect.
Diamond Head shoulder high and windy.
Trade winds at 15mph.
Sun, rain, rainbows.
Very uncrowded.
Going surfing.
Have a wonderful day!

i check my mailbox and get a letter from a stranger? i open it, look inside, and find a note and $5. who and what is this???

then i remember!!! i found this guys license floating in the ocean and sent it back to him in washington. i guess he got my name and address from the return address because he sent me a very thoughtful letter. at the end, it says: P.S. Enjoy a “Cool” beverage! thank you sir! i will go buy me an ice cold beer with the money. i really appreciate it!

well, another picture perfect day today. blue sky and white clouds. lovely.

went surfing with Ushijima-san from Toyama. super good surfer and super cool guy. can you believe he caught 40 waves today? just wave after wave after wave. it was awesome! see you tomorrow early morning again Ushijima-san. let’s catch 40 more!

diamond head looked fun too but ala moana was way better. better winds and better conditions. but even thought diamond head is a little windier, it’s still a beautiful wave.

omg, can’t wait to eat these!!!

custard pie from Toyama. thank you Ushijima-san!

yesterday was another beautiful day. it started off by a round of surfing at bowls. still overhead and super clean! only a few surfers out as everybody is officially burnt out! usually at this time of year, i’m ready for a surf trip somewhere to uncrowded surf. but this year, i have absolutely no motivation. i’m totally surfed out, totally satisfied, and totally sunburnt. but give me a week and things will change. haha. as for hawaii, by far the best of the best summer so far and it’s just the start. time to move on to bigger and better waves.

gosh, i learned a lot yesterday after being in the ocean with the top professionals in the production industry. from RED camera, to drones, to talent. all amazing people with amazing skills. i felt like a kid in a classroom getting schooled. i love to learn new things so my brain felt really content last night as i was driving home.

also had so much fun laughing and laughing. it was last call at sunset as Kapena and i came in with the sunset. an amazing day in the ocean classroom!