it’s the first time ever to have three category 4 storms all at one time near hawaii. el nino is pulling the storms near the islands and it’s creating hot weather, perfect waves on all shores, and glassy conditions. a surfers dream!

surfed this morning with Ambo-san again. we surfed for 3 hours and he told me the caught 9 months worth of waves already. super good waves and super good rides! after every wave, he would paddle back out and say “so fun!”

then we went to eat pho. gosh, i love it!

ramen equals japan, and pho equals hawaii.

then we went to check out diamond head. OMG, SO BEAUTIFUL! we stood there and all you can hear when tourists come out of their car and see this beautiful view was “OH MY GOSH!” it was a perfect day!

if we surf tomorrow, Ambo-san will get one full years worth of surfing in just 3 days! that would be cool!

don’t know why but my morning post cut off the heads of these beautiful crazy women. Britney Spears? omg, wasn’t she once a little shy girl?

and Miley Cyrus? wasn’t she once the little cute disney girl? what the heck happened to these girls??? and where are the rest of their clothes? i’m glad i’m not their father. i would jump off a cliff.

and who the heck is this? 10 years ago, you wouldn’t even imagine seeing dresses like this. i’m scared to see what the trend will be 10 years later? fully naked? omg!
anyway, waves and good conditions all week. water is warm, weather is hot, and waves are epic. back to life, back to paradise!

New South swell!!
Everywhere good!!!
Lucky day!

i flew in yesterday morning from japan. Ambo-san flew in yesterday afternoon from mexico. he calls me, we go surfing, and have a great time. it was Ambo-san’s first time to hawaii and also his birthday! super stoked to celebrate it with him riding awesome waves! score! and to think we met for the first time a few months ago in el salvador. this is surfing.

i was walking behind Eri-chan in japan and couldn’t believe how black her legs were! OMG! too much surfing honey girl!

photo by Matsu. people watching in sendai.

i love the little eating parts of sendai. so cool!

i really wanted to buy this foot massager in japan after feeling so good after my massage. i was thinking it would go good right under my desk. it was on sale for 35,000 yen or about $291. i come back to hawaii and check how much it costs here? omg! it was 60,000 yen or $495. omg, i should have bought it in japan! next time, for sure!

one of my dreams was to become a salary man in japan. but after catching the train once to tokyo during rush hour, i changed my mind and decide to become a professional surfer instead. it was that instantaneous.

and after becoming a professional surfing and surfing the JPSA contests for 2 years in waves like this, i decided to become a soul surfer instead. to be honest, chasing points at contests all over japan in waves like this, i knew it wasn’t for me. now 20 years later, i can say it was the best decision of my life for both jobs. i traveled the world, i met so many friends, and have experiences i will treasure for life. thank you Takami-san for sending me this photo of the contest last week in chiba. it really made me realize i made the right decisions in my life.