another fun day surfing and another 40 waves ridden. Ushijima-san’s going back to japan tomorrow with 80 waves ridden in the past 2 days. and the great thing is he’s going back right into a typhoon swell. super lucky timing for this hard core surfer! keep on surfing Ushijima-san!

we had a poke bowl and shave ice for lunch. gosh, great for my 20 minute afternoon nap.

want to thank Uchiyama-san for sending me the photos of the typhoon swell starting in Chigasaki. gosh, i remember standing on this very overpass 23 years ago checking the waves every single day. brings back my youthful japan sweet memories.

spent time with my grandnephew yesterday watching Elmo and eating pistachio nuts. i taught him how to open the pistachio nuts and he was so happy!

super stoked to see Matsu so successful in photography. i’d say he’s pretty international and pretty famous in what he does. great work Shinsuke Matsukawa!

showing the beautiful japanese culture through the lens.

gosh, makes me want to go back to japan!
ok, i’m not surprised, but Hawaii is worst city in U.S. to make a living. yes, most expensive, most expensive, and most expensive. everything costs more to buy, and the average working persons salary is 1/3 lower than others on the mainland USA. the homeless problem is growing each year just as fast as the high rise luxury condos going up. it’s just going to get more expensive with less paying jobs so better start saving your money if you want to continue living here. just look at the differences in prices compared to Texas.

Reid pulling in this morning. Good waves, good surfers, good vibe, good day!

before we paddled out, i told Ushijima-san that he’s going to score! everybody here in hawaii is totally surfed out so he came at the perfect time.

the waves were super glassy and perfect. rights and lefts all morning long. look how beautiful this wave is! and nobody around!!! nice wave Ushijima-san!

super good surfing and super good wave.

i watched and watched Ushijima-san catch so many waves. i kept on yelling “GO!” and he would go.

this is total score!

and i was super happy to be surfing in such a peaceful place. no stress, no problems, and no traffic.

great surfing Ushijima-san. and want to say hello to all my surfer friends in Toyama! hope to surf your secret spots again soon!

the day is finally coming! tomorrow night to be exact. the waikiki shell at 5:30pm! Christopher Cross, Little River Band, and Kalapana! OMG, it’s going to be cool, mellow, and old school. see you there.