Thursday August21日 2025年

El Nino and Positive Life

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well, typhoon season is starting up in the western pacific. a super typhoon and a baby typhoon taking its course right now. many many more to come. please be safe.
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this year is supposed to be an El Nino year for hawaii. that means light winds, and more rain. that means glassy surfing conditions, and perfect fishing and diving conditions. i’m not complaining.
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Bobby sent me this photo asking me if this is real? yes, the fish is real, the fishermen are real, and most important, the photographer is real real good. the fish just looks bigger than it is because it’s in perspective of the fishermen. closer so bigger. good photographer.
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been having so much fun surfing. this morning was empty and very good. just a few guys, a lot of waves, and a lot of fun surfing.
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every time i come across a good quote, i keep it on my desktop. just so that it can remind me of how i want to live out this beautiful life.
A Negative Mind will NEVER Give you a Positive Life!
think about it, live it, and enjoy your beautiful life.

Speed, Power, and Natural High

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i had no idea the tabs on the top of cans were made to hold the straw. did you know?
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some people surf once, some people surf twice, and some people surf forever. i’m pretty sure that Oshima-san will be the one to surf forever. he looks happier than a kid riding a ride at disneyland. we were just laughing and having such a great time yesterday. going surfing again this morning and i can’t wait to see the pure stoke in this young man again!
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the waves have been pretty big to get to the outside but Oshima-san wants to go out and get the big ones. so i taught him how to dive under the waves. perfect form!
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going underwater is the coolest thing ever. doing it or watching it, i love it both!
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i finally got my headstands down. love doing it because when the blood rushes to my head, i feel a natural high. a natural high in the ocean is the ultimate feeling in the world!
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took the girls out yesterday afternoon and trying to get them to put the board on the rail. rail surfing is the key to power and speed. both a necessity for quality surfing. good job girls! perfect rail surfing!
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last, check out this photo from a diving trip i went on in the maldives a couple of years ago. i couldn’t believe how many fish there were! makes me want to go back there someday to check out how the ocean around the world use to be. the way it use to be before man overkilled it. so yes, in my opinion, the maldives has the best diving in the world and no where even comes close. go check it out for yourself.

May 11, 2015 Hawaii Surf Report

The California Drought Continues…
Good morning 5:30am.
Chest high at Ala Moana.
Overhead at Diamond Head.
Waist high at Waikiki.
Strong trade winds at 30mph.
Little morning sickness becoming better in the afternoon.
Cloudy morning becoming sunny and warm.
Going surfing.
Have a wonderful day!