Tuesday November18日 2025年

100% Summer!

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had another perfect blue surf day with Dr. Kawano-san. super good rides in some pretty big waves. the waves and weather was absolutely perfect! well overhead sets and perfect conditions. good job today Kawano-san! you ripped!
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it’s 100% summer! super blue sky, white clouds, warm water, and consistent surf. if you were to imagine the most perfect weather and waves in your life, today would have been it. oh, yesterday too. and the day before. and everyday for the past month. it’s been that perfect. and nobody expected the waves to come up today so pulling up to solid 4′ bowls was a treat. i’m so burnt and surfed out. i wish i can crawl into a country that is indoor with good food. want to rest my skin for a little while.
spent the whole day in the ocean. will download my lost go-pro files and tell you the story tomorrow. for now, i just want to thank my friends for helping me today. if it wasn’t for you guys, i’d be phototless.

Surf Team, Ahi Fever, and Oki Boys

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had an awesome time surfing with my friend Carter and his son Conner last Father’s Day. being able to surf together is priceless. it creates a special bond that will continue in our lives forever.
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Carter doing the old school layback. brought back all the surfing memories we had for the past 35 years of surfing together.
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Carter and I use to compete against each other back in the 80’s. he became a lawyer, i stayed a surfer. we chose different paths but always end up at the same place, the ocean.
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it’s only been a year or so since Conner started surfing. the kids getting better and better. so stoked to see him turned on to surfing. a great balance to a great future ahead.
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as i watch the kids getting better and better, i can see their smile getting bigger and bigger. which ever path in life they choose, i will support them as much as i can. and i also want them to know that if they ever need a surfer buddy, i will always be here for them. always and forever.
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want to congratulate Kyle for finally getting his first ahi of the season! he’s got the fever like i’ve never seen or heard of before. haha.
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and stoked to see my Okinawan Boys having a great time in Oki. hey guys, i hope to see you soon!

June 26, 2015 Hawaii Surf Report

Is her body real? Or fake?
Good morning 5am.
South swell continues! So good!
Solid head high at Ala Moana.
Overhead sets at Diamond Head.
Trade winds at 15mph.
Super sunny and warm day.
Surfing all day long!
Have a wonderful day!