a lot of people ask me the difference from a swallow tail and round pin. most of my boards are round pin and i love it because the turns are super smooth. this is a rare swallow tail i own. the turns pivot a little as each side of the tail wants to release the water. totally different boards for totally different waves. but i were to choose one, it would have to be a round tail.

Taketoshi is here for a 2 week home stay. i took him surfing yesterday afternoon and we had a great time. perfect from the beginning till the end. a very fast learner indeed.

after 45 minutes on the 11’0, he wanted to try the 9’6. i was amazed how fast he paddled and how quickly he turned to the right. a very smart kid!

i rode the 11’0 and decided to surf and do yoga at the same time. this is killing two birds with one stone. namaste.

i point to Diamond Head and ask Taketoshi “what is that mountain called?” he said “ummm, Rock Mountain?” haha. so cute!

we both needed a haircut so we went to my barber. the $12 special cut is the best price on the island. this is before.

this is during.

and this is after. feel so clean and so young. haha. enjoy the rest of your home stay here in Hawaii Taketoshi! and please don’t forget Diamond Head. haha.

Sooner or Later: Someday I will go here!
Good morning 6am.
Ala Moana little bigger than yesterday. Stomach high and very clean.
East swell coming later today.
Trade winds at 15mph.
Rain, clouds, rainbows, and sun. Very unpredictable weather.
Going surfing.
Have a wonderful day!

can you believe a storm is right offshore? hard to believe with this picture perfect weather. supposed to rain tomorrow and thursday but it’s only water right? i’m going to keep on surfing!

just another day of perfect conditions!

surfed with Team Sendai again this morning. super cool surfer crew that loves to surf. loves it so much that we surfed for 4 hours straight. no need food, just need surf. haha.

Tanaka-san is a big guy so needs a bigger wave. so when he caught the sets, you could see the power in his turns. powerful and beautiful!

off the top with diamond head in the back? picture perfect.

yes, it’s pretty shallow on the low tide. watch your feet!

Kiyomi-san caught some good ones too! very long rides!

nice spray off the bottom turn at rock piles.

Hayato-san’s been surfing for 35 years and you can see it in his surfing. very good wave knowledge and very high performance surfing.

spray me!

just love it when you surf for so long and come out of the beautiful ocean so happy. this is hawaii! see you guys tomorrow morning.

then went to pick up Taketoshi for an awesome afternoon session! more beautiful photos coming tomorrow. it’s past 9pm and way past my bedtime. spent 6 hours in the ocean. tomorrow’s going to be another long day. good night.