ok, get ready for the super typhoon! the biggest of the year so far. heading straight to the philippines pushing south swells up to japan this weekend. very dangerous so be careful!

always good to see my friends at the beach. friends i would have never ever met if it wasn’t for surfing. i met Wade Tokoro about 30 years ago. a great surfer, a great shaper, and one of the nicest guys in the world.

i met Reid out in the water at bowls. another great surfer and one of the nicest guys in the world. so if i didn’t surf, i wouldn’t have met these 2 amazing guys. and my life probably wouldn’t be this good. hank you surfing!

passed by magic island today and got the backstage view of the crew shooting Hawaii Five-0.

then took my little friend surfing this afternoon.

been taking this kid ever since he was 5 years old. today was his first time surfing on his own. you should have seen his expression after he caught his first wave. priceless!

on my last long trip, i was sitting next to a really nice japanese guy on the airplane. we started talking and he told me to watch this movie called “Eternal Zero.” i watched it and it was one of the best japanese movies i’ve ever seen. it’s about the Kamakaze pilots in WWII. you should watch it too!

you know what’s so funny? i’ve been so dam busy that i totally forgot i took these photos. i just uploaded data off my camera and wondered what this was??? it was our super secret surf session with Saito-san, Nishi-kun, Kanae-san, and Hikaru-san.

surfing is all about enjoying it with friends.

Saito-san on the take off.

Saito-san on the bottom turn.

this is a nice photo. putting the rail off the bottom. good surfing!

Nishi-kun surfs really good. super fast and super smooth.

nice!

Hikaru-san’s been going on a lot of surf trips. a lifestyle many surfers dream of.

nice wave!

Kanae-san was the birthday girl this day. a birthday girl with many birthday gifts from mother nature. waves!

good ride, good smile.

Nishi-san on another good one.

had a great time surfing with Saito-san and friends. glad i found these photos i forgot i even took. haha. see you all very soon!

Hawaii: The Big Island
Good morning 5:45am.
North shore down to chest high. Clean morning conditions.
South shore waist high with chest high sets. Little bumpy but clean conditions.
Light variable winds so clean in the morning and onshore in the afternoon.
Super sunny and warm.
Going surfing.
Have a wonderful day!