they finally chopped up the sailboat and put it in this dumpster. the beach is finally clean again. i was talking to the salvage guy and he told me that the captain was trying to ride a wave out near the buoy with his sailboat. bad idea! he crashed into the reef, he went to the hospital, and he had no insurance. so the state of hawaii had to pay for the salvage. our taxpayer money??? OMG!

once again, the waves were good today. some leftover 4′ sets and great conditions. incredible swell.

went surfing with Uchiyama-san today. we surfed 2 rounds both on the low tide and high tide. afternoon was much better. score!

then we went deep into china town for lunch. my favorite dim sum restaurant.

and my favorite sweet sour cabbage with pork rice noodles. omg, so good!

and of course, dessert.

such a wonderful couple. we had such a great time surfing and eating all day. thank you Uchiyama-san and Tomomi-san!

33 degrees celsius in 98 degrees fahrenheit. that’s pretty dam hot! but the good thing is you don’t sweat because the cool trade winds is like a free air conditioner. our perfect summer continues…

gosh, i’m just loving life! my hand is still sore and burning so bad. it won’t heal because i’m in the water everyday all day long. but once i ride a wave, all the pain goes away. surfing is healing magic!

oh, and yet another hurricane coming next week? the last one disappeared and this one is supposed to hit us. more waves coming!

want to thank Maneuverline Japan for the cool Cobian slippers. stoked but i hope nobody steals them.
going sleep early. tomorrow yet another full day of surfing. good night.

1368lbs. or 620 kilos Marlin caught in Hawaii!
HUGE!

4 straight days of pumping surf? i really thought yesterday was going to be super small but i was wrong. still some solid sets with lots of power. the strongest and longest south swell ever? i think so.

Matsumoto-san was surfing the typhoon last week in miyazaki. now he’s in hawaii. same like me! chasing the waves or perfect timing? doesn’t matter what you call it as long as we’re riding big swells. perfect wave and perfect bottom turn.

followed by a nice off the lip. awesome surfing Matsumoto-san!

and of course, the duck dive. perfect!

very very happy surfers after such a great session. have a safe trip back to japan and keep on chasing typhoons Matsumoto-san!

long walls and glassy conditions. i love it!

yesterday i took this 9 year and 6 year old kids surfing. so stoked to see their facial expressions. the 9 year old kid kept on wanting to surf and never wanting to go in. i’m pretty sure he’s hooked! look at him almost getting barreled!

usually when i go to japan for a week, i get fat. yeah, usually gain about 3 kilos or 10 pounds eating that wonderful food. last trip, i lost weight because i surfed so much. came back to hawaii skinnier than ever. and ever since i’ve been back, i’ve been surfing so much that i’m losing even more weight. so every night i’ve been eating a lot of protein. came home last night and cooked up 2 steaks. ate 2 servings of rice and miso soup. gained some weight back for sure.

so good and so lucky i can eat anything i want for the next month as the waves continue to burn off every calorie i take in.