woke up at 4:30am and drove out to the north shore for a dawn patrol session. raining, windy, and very dark. then the sun came out and, then the biggest double rainbow, and perfect glassy off shore conditions. was focusing on laniakea because i wanted to surf a long right point break. paddled out and only 1 guy beat me there. got into a good rotation as perfect rights kept on coming to me. after an hour, i was satisfied. stopped for some cream puffs at wailua bakery, then had a happy drive home.

spring is always best. when i was going in, there were only about 8 surfers out. 2-4′ off shore and absolutely no tourists or pro surfers. it was just locals only time.

always love taking the long way home. better scenery, better smell, and better greenery.

stopped by my favorite filipino food restaurant on the way back for my 4 choice combo for $8.99. cheap and really good!

then went out for a quick spin in the afternoon. gosh, there are so many turtles these days that you actually have to drive slow. they are so tame and just won’t move for you.

had a great time surfing with Moriguchi-san. super cool girl that loves to surf.

good riding Moriguchi-san! keep on surfing!

heard there is supposed to be the best ramen shop in hawaii downtown. it’s called Lucky Belly and is rated pretty high. $14 per ramen so more expensive than new york. wondering how it tastes? can somebody go and tell me how it is? i don’t like to be disappointed when it comes to food anymore so i’ll just wait until i go to japan to eat my ramen. by the way, is that an aribiki sausage in the ramen??? very interesting.

got a call from Matchi yesterday alarming me about the next typhoon. it’s unbelievable how things happen for me. the typhoon swell is supposed to arrive in japan the same day i arrive. so it’s straight to shikoku for me!

Typhoon Maysak is supposed to get pretty big. probably have waves all the way from the philippics, to taiwan, to japan. i hope to score some good waves!

when ever i teach surfing, i teach about safety. i tell everybody to jump off if they are going to hit someone. jump off to the side before impact.

who’s fault? in this case, the guy in the inside who is trying to paddle for a wave without even looking. that is very dangerous. shame on the person who took him out there. but luckily, Fujimoto-san did exactly what i told him to do. JUMP!!!

then i watch as Fujimoto-san’s 11’0 surfboard goes up the guys butt. he didn’t even know what hit him. after that, i told the poor guy, “i think you should go in.”

2-4′ and super fun!!!