shikoku is known for katsuo tataki. i ate the best of the best katsuo tataki last night and i was so happy with every single bite. it was brought in by the fisherman to the port at 5pm, and we were eating it at 8pm. the best ever!

and slice tomato is my absolute favorite fruit. yeah, so sweet! japan has the best tomatoes in the world.

been coming to Shikoku for 23 years and it’s the first time i ate at this restaurant. i was asking Yassan and Tomoko-san, “why didn’t you bring me here before???” haha. thank you Yassan and Tomoko-san for the wonderful dinner. can’t wait to go back there again.

i get home after 10pm, i work a little on my computer, then i sleep around 11pm. set my alarm for 4am, picked up a sandwich at the convenience store, and was in the parking lot before 5am. i was the first guy here, even came before the fishermen came.

the waves were going off! only had 6 surfers including Matchi and I this morning exchanging wave after wave. the conditions were epic as the swell pulsed for an hour. 4′ sets and very very friendly barrels.

paddling out watching Matchi getting barreled was cool. we’ve done this way too many times.

everybody tells me “perfect timing.” i hear it every year. i don’t think it’s perfect timing, i think it’s perfect friends that give me the perfect reports. all i have to do is jump on a plane and come here. pretty easy. and when Matchi told me this morning “Kirby, you are so lucky! today is the best day of the year.” hearing that from one of my best friends in the world always makes me super happy.
i’ll be here for only 2 more days, decided to cut my trip short. have lot of work waiting for me back in hawaii, and another big 6′ south swell is heading there right now. i’m timing it perfectly so i can get off the airplane and pull into a big barrel at big rights before i go to work. stoke!

I’m so happy in barrel this morning!!!

yesterday afternoon as i was about to close my eyes for my afternoon nap, Matchi texted me “2 feet and going out now.” what??? i jump in the car, speed down to the river mouth, and see Matchi surfing out there alone. i wax up my board, join him, and it was the 2 of us enjoying some peaceful surf time. the river was flowing so the water was freezing. it was raining so that made it worst. i didn’t bring a wetsuit with me because i thought it was going to be warm. big mistake! i surfed anyway. cold turned to warm as soon as i rode a wave. stoke!

always like to walk around the TSSC factory to check out what’s going on. so many magic boards everywhere! i look at the shapes, the glassing, the airbrush, and the excellent quality.

and also originality. very innovative.

then i go to Matchi’s room to bother him. we talk about boards, surfing, and surfing.

then i load up my mini van with 6 magic boards that i will be using for the next few days. can’t wait!