it’s amazing on all the things that come from the deep mountains out to the oceans river mouths. if i had a truck, i’d take this tree home, turn it upside down, and make a nice glass table out of it. so cool!

and it’s amazing how just a simple front of a house can capture my eyes. deep japan and i love everything about it.

i was sitting in a bar in the big city drinking a beer and people watching. these 2 girls on the table next to me went to the restroom. one of them left her bag right here just like this. nobody around to watch it for her. they were gone for 5-7 minutes. i was thinking to myself, “it’s incredible how japanese have so much trust in this country.” in any other country, this bag would be gone in 1 minute. but being the guy i am, i watch it closely and make sure nobody steals it. nobody did. the girls walk back to the table and carry on their conversation like nothing happened. then it made me remember the first time i came to japan and forgot my camera in a curry shop in tokyo. i didn’t notice it was gone until 1 hour later. i returned anyway just to see if it was still there. and it was in the exact same place. since that day, i fell in love with japan and tell everybody that wonderful story.

shark attacks since 1900. might look like a lot of attacks but it’s not that much considering it being for 15 years. the United States (including Hawaii) have the most attacks, but Australia has the moth deaths. interesting graph.

it’s cool how patient and understanding you have to be when chasing a typhoon swell. no matter what the forecasters or internet site models predict, the best way is going to check for yourself. this morning, that’s exactly what we did.

i set my alarm for 5am but i heard somebody tooting his horn from outside my room at 4:20am. i get up and find Matchi waiting in the pitch dark storming rain. i get in his car, we drive for 4 hours all over checking spot after spot. we knew there won’t be any waves today because the swell should start showing tomorrow and peak on friday. but like how we use to do it 20 years ago with no phone and no internet, we went on instinct. checked out everywhere so when the swell shows tomorrow, we will know exactly where to go. thanks Match for driving me around hours and hours for the past 23 years. always good to catch up on things.

i don’t come to japan typhoon season to surf reef breaks. i come here to surf river mouths. why? because there is nowhere in the world like here. the most perfect setups you can ever imagine. today was a little too small, but things will start growing rapidly.

typhoon 12 is right on course. i have thursday, friday, and saturday to surf it before it hits japan. then i have to scramble around to get a flight back to hawaii because i work next week.

if you ask google, here i am.

i’m sitting in my room overlooking the beautiful pacific ocean. come tomorrow, i’ll be moving around to a very far place. a place where my google map won’t work.

i still feel so weird after that bus ride last night. i still wasn’t hungry this morning but forced an udon into my stomach because i was feeling weak. $250, can’t beat this!
going to relax today and get my equipment ready for the next 3 days of surfing. can’t wait!

  
Too small. Go back sleep