Monday September22日 2025年

It's here!


3-5′ North shore and growing fast!!!

Adios El Amigos

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when you travel, you meet the most interesting people. these 3 kids from el salvador were the coolest. from the time we met, we hung out everyday. they even gave me a ride to the airport the day i left and all of them came along for the ride. they grabbed my board, my bag, and took care of me like i was their brother.
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then the 40 minute ride to the airport was fun. playing loud music, talking loud stories, and just laughing all the way.
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seeing the el salvador way of transportation.
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this kid Vacerro was cool. reminded me of my nephew Seth. shy, pure, and a great heart. i gave him my clothes when i left and he wore it right away. super thankful and stoked. when ever i took a photo of him, he would look away from the camera and be so shy. so i told him “hey, you have to show your smile dude! don’t be shame to smile to make others happy.” so i asked him to try again.
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here it is, the Vacerro smile. haha.
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i get out of the truck at the airport, then the boys run out to carry my bags. got big shaka’s, said our goodbyes, and told them “i’ll be back!” el salvador reminds me of bali 20 years ago. i hope it never changes.

April 15, 2015 Hawaii Surf Report

Pole Dancing?
Good morning 6am.
North shore coming UP! 2-3′ now becoming 6-8′ later this afternoon.
South shore small at waist high.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Rain, showers, sun, rainbows.
Going surfing!
Have a wonderful day!