wow, this morning was so fun. surfing with friends and family at bowls enjoying our rides. so many japanese surfers here for the contest that starts tomorrow and runs until monday. took my camera and going to share our wonderful session with you.

Takayuki Wakita on a set! super smooth surfer and super cool surfer. i met Wakita back in 1992 for the first time. he was just an amateur with big dreams. now this guy in an invitee for the prestigious Eddie Aikau Big Wave Contest at Waimea Bay. dreams come true.

today was probably one of the most crowded days of the year at bowls because of the contest that starts tomorrow. hawaii’s top professionals and amateurs out practicing. we paddled out at the perfect time as Kimura-san caught so many good waves. here is just one of many.

i was in the right place for the right photo. diamond head, blue sky, sun, and a happy 62 year old boy enjoying hawaii.

Micah Moniz was on the outside and gave Kimura-san this wave. pure stoke!

Micah made his way up to one of the most respected young men surfers in hawaii. so down to earth and so respectful. always smiling and always sharing. after Kimura-san caught his previous wave, Micah told me “hey uncle, tell Kimura-san to come to the outside and sit by me. i’ll give him any wave he wants.” that makes me very happy because surfing is all about spreading the aloha. proud to be Micah’s uncle.

and of course, i had to get my fair share. we had a great time today. tomorrow the contest starts so game face ON!

japanese pro surfer Kaishu, Hayato, and Kimura-san. japanese always welcome in hawaii!

shower time!

it’s incredible how surfing can bring out a magical smile. Kimura-san had one of his best sessions i ever seen. caught a lot of waves, talked to a lot of friends, and surfed really good.
tomorrow i’ll be shooting the contest from the water so expect an epic photo gallery coming soon!
surf your dream!

when tahiti gets a big south swell, it takes about 5 days to arrive here in hawaii. usually half the size at most, but too hard and too far to predict. all we know is a south swell is coming and everybody is excited!

typhoons have been sending swell to japan too! super good secret left point! thank you Toda-san and Takami-san for the photo. hope to see you guys soon!

every time i go to a third world county, i always want to check out the night market. so cheap and so interesting. the only thing i usually end up buying is fresh fruits. everything else is fake. haha.

night market in Antigua.

and when a building impresses me, i stop and take a photo. this one was so beautiful.

and i love this little car. wish i had one in hawaii!

don’t walk down the side streets in the dark. even in the day looks scary. there are steel bars around every single window and door. why? because people break in all the time!

the start of a 9.5 hour bus ride. everybody smiling as we left, but nobody was smiling after 9 hours of our ride from hell. our drunk bus driver, no toilet stops, and almost driving off the cliffs many of times. never again for me. but this group of backpackers from australia, israel, denmark, holland, and other places in this wonderful world.

check out the new TSSC stickers! love it!

Immigrant War!
Good morning 6am.
Chest high surf and coming up at Ala Moana. Very clean and very slow.
30 surfers at Bowls.
Diamond Head head high and clean.
Light trade winds at 15mph.
Super sunny and super warm.
Perfect surfing day.
See you in the water.