the other night i was looking all over for my surfboard bag. i couldn’t find it. i let people borrow things and sometimes i forget who. i know i had a couple but i guess not. so i grab an old bag that was all dirty and everything broken. get out the duck tape, and start working on the bag. not too bad yeah? haha.

now that i have the bag, i went to my garage to see how i’m going to take this big bag on my motorcycle??? duck tape?

if you seen me on the freeway going 70mph yesterday with a surfboard and backpack, that was me. i thought i was in bali or something. the scariest bike ride of my life. haha. had a quick question. is it illegal in hawaii? just wondering.

omg, had an awesome time with the Deguchi-san family yesterday morning. a very energetic family that kept on going and going. we caught so many good waves from the outside and had so much fun. Mama Deguchi-san hasn’t been in the ocean for over 20 years! but guess what? first wave, she stood up! very impressive. then daughter Mai-san and son Mike-san surfed so good too. i can’t wait to download the photos i took. thank you all for the wonderful morning!
after that, i was off to the airport. made it to atlanta in a full airplane. had the very last seat in the very back row. watched a few movies, couldn’t sleep, no food. now waiting for my connection flight. going to grab some breakfast, board my next flight, and land in a foreign land very soon. can’t wait!

HNL to ATL.
See you in 11 hours!!!

had a great session with Hara-san. super stoked on surfing and super happy when he’s riding a wave. great balance and concentration on this nice bottom turn.

then we changed boards and changed directions. once you can do a cutback, the rest is easy.

awesome surfing Hara-san! take care and keep on surfing!

our red sky dawn patrol session with Nakamoto-san was one to remember. the best way to start off the day.

early mornings in hawaii is very uncrowded. why? because normal people are sleeping. haha.

awesome surfing Nakamoto-san. glad you got to ride the golden sunrise that morning!

ok, check out the next swell heading straight for central america. it gave me an excuse to have a 4 day stopover on my way to new york. wednesday is the biggest day and i hope to make it there by then. might have to fly to japan again to get to that part of the world. did it before so can do it again. waves all week long!

and the tide is perfect too! perfect swell, perfect tide, and perfect weather equals perfect surf trip. i was only home for a few days but it’s time for me to explore again. life is too short to turn down opportunities like this. see you amigos! from hot tropical weather to freezing cold NY. better pack well.