omg, i was super surfed out after the morning session so i came home and took a nap. the winds came onshore too the waves got junk around lunch time. i woke up from my nap at 3pm, then felt the cool trade winds coming into my window. i knew the waves were going to get good so i jumped into the truck, then boat, and went out to big rights. OMG! it was going off! off shore and nobody out. everybody went in because it was junky earlier so we had it all to ourselves. super good friends came out soon after and we exchanged epic barrels and barrels. light off shore winds and perfect shape barrels. it was the best big rights session of my lifetime and i’ve been surfing out there for 30 years. it was unbelievable!

yesterdays action at bowls was incredible too. back to the front row watching my friends catching awesome waves. take off by Troy.

every single wave was pretty much barreling. all you had to do was make the bottom turn and you will get a barrel for sure. that easy.

this was one of the clean ones. super glassy and super smooth. the perfect bottom turn.

coming in the ala wai channel is so dangerous. even when it’s calm, it’s dangerous. but when the waves are big, it’s super dangerous. you better know what the heck you’re doing. have to time the sets, have to play the currents, and have to be alert. not captains alert, but surfers alert. if you’re not alert, this will happen to your dream yacht. i see this all the time.

i drove over to bowls to see the damage for myself. so depressing watching a big sailboat like this smash the reef and leak oil and gas into the ocean and sand.

if i had to take this out of the water, i would get a big crane and lift it out from the beach. it’s going to cost about $80,000 so i hope the owner has insurance.

this is so sad.

Clean up starts today.
Good morning 6am.
High Surf Advisory for South Shores.
Ala Moana still solid 5′ and good.
Diamond Head bigger.
Trade winds at 15mph.
Super sunny and warm.
Surfing all day.
See you in the ocean.

got out to big rights this morning. totally empty! big waves for big men i guess? more huge barrels all morning long. no wind so glassy conditions, so many sets, and so many happy surfers. coming home 2 days earlier was the best decision i’ve ever made in my surfing career. i would have been super bummed if i missed this mega swell. and this evening was even better! omg, it was like a dream!

i still can’t’ believe how this summer has been! scored all summer, then went flat for a week, but it’s ok because i scored in japan, and now, more score! for me, this has to be the most powerful swell of the past 10 years. not the biggest, but definitely the strongest. so many broken boards and i haven’t gotten pounded this much since north shore. i checked the waves this morning and when i seen this wave almost break over the red buoy, i left my house.

the Transpac is in full swing so people from all over the world raced to get here to hawaii. so cool!

i seen the most craziest thing ever this morning. i seen a $100 million mega yacht coming in the channel. everything looked normal, then all of a sudden, i seen the yacht make a full turn in the channel!!! omg, i was freaking! a 100′ yacht trying to turn around in a 100′ channel with waves breaking? if a set came when the boat was sideways like this, it would have been the biggest and most expensive disaster in the ala wai history. i sill don’t know what the heck the captain was thinking????

he regained control and cruised on in. i was trying to yell up to the 4th floor captains tower “what were you thinking???”

then i turn my head to the left and see this? omg!!!! what the heck is going on???? anyway, the high surf warning continues. expect huge surf till tuesday. if you’re experienced, go get barreled. if you’re not, stay out of the freaking ocean!!!

the best of the best summer in the history of surfing in hawaii. glad i didn’t miss a thing! more photos coming tomorrow.