Itai!
Good morning 6am.
Chest high sets at Ala Moana. Clean.
Head high sets at Diamond Head. Windy.
Strong trade winds at 25mph.
Cloudy morning becoming sunny and very warm.
Surfing all day!
See you in the water!

i had an awesome time with Yumi-chan today. we haven’t surfed together in a while so i wasn’t sure how she would do. on top of that, the waves were pretty big for her today. the biggest she’s ever surfed. i didn’t tell her that until we came in. haha. but from the first wave to last, she surfed perfectly!

but next time i see her, i’m going to scold her for standing on the reef! busted girl! haha.

thank you Yumi-chan for the wonderful day of surfing! keep on surfing and keep on hawaii!

i had a great time too. the waves were super fun for long boarding. feeling so good riding a swell to myself. no traffic, no people, and no noise. just me and the ocean feeling so content.

after we came in, it got so crowded all of a sudden. and super windy and choppy. perfect timing again!
last, here is a quote from the Duke. a quote that is in the history books of surfing. a quote that has a different meaning to everybody. but to me, this is an awesome quote most watermen can relate to.
“Out of water, I am nothing.” Duke Kahanamoku

Yes, Longboard day! So fun!