had a blast with Sato-san the other day. just a super stoked out surfer that loves to surf. part of the coolest group of other surfers that friendships continue to bloom.

don’t let this photo fool you as it looks pretty easy. this day was yet another challenging day for waves. before Sato-san caught this first wave, he had to go over and under about 40 waves on the way out. it wasn’t easy.

nobody out. nobody as crazy as us. haha.

there was a big set coming in and Sato-san took off and pulled into the barrel. i couldn’t believe it! 57 years old and still getting barreled! what an inspiration!

last, been looking for someplace to go on the way back from New York. i would love to go watch this guy fish. do you think he has a cell phone where i can contact him? i’m trying but no luck so far.

Not a Million dollars. This cost a Billion dollars.
Good morning 6am.
North shore 15-18′ and ugly.
South shore head high and pretty.
North winds at 5-10mph so perfect conditions on the South Shore. Super sunny and cool day.
Going surfing!
Have a wonderful day!

the weather has been so wild!!! but since it’s mother nature, there is absolutely nothing we can do about it. just have to figure out the best option, and go for it. strong south/west winds are the worst winds for surfing in hawaii. you either have to know where to go, or you have to be a very strong paddler to survive.

i was on my way to pick up Takahashi-san and the boys. kind of worried as the winds and rain wasn’t looking the greatest.

poor tourists. but i guess it’s better than freezing cold snow.

we ended up taking the challenge and surfing out at bowls. yes, only us out as it was almost impossible to surf. but Takahashi-san being a great surfer, and the 2 boys surfing for their first time but very athletic rugby players, i knew they could do it. and yes, they did it! and guess what? the warm sun came out! 50 waves per minute so getting out was hard, but once out, everybody rode it perfectly. good job Takahashi-san, Kouta-kun, and Keito-kun! you are all tough men!!!

then we went to tantalus for the million dollar view. it was so beautiful!

cool photo yeah!

then we went to check diamond head. i could see and feel the winds switching to north/west as diamond head started to blow side off shore. tonight we will get strong north/west winds, and when we wake up tomorrow, it will be perfect off shore north winds so perfect waves in town. can’t wait.

Takahashi-san and the family had a whale watching boat tour this morning. they took their seasick medicine, they boarded the boat, and before the boat left, the captain said “no way.” i’m surprised the captain even let them board the boat??? i’m not a great captain, but i could have told you last night that there is no way a whale watching boat can make it out there today. and even if the captain took the boat out, it would have probably sank. it was that rough and i’m not joking.

dropped the boys off and drove home into the sunset. what another great day on this beautiful island.

tomorrow the weather will turn back to paradise. all week of perfect weather, light winds, and epic waves! see you in the water!!!