Want fried chicken?
Good morning 7:30am.
Chest high at Ala Moana and very clean.
Diamond Head shoulder high and clean.
Light trade winds at 10mpn.
Super sunny and very warm.
Have a beautiful Sunday!

i woke up early to jump in the water before it gets too hot. paddled out before 7am and it was already hot! i wanted to catch only a couple of waves and come in but ended catching about 15 waves and stayed out for 2 hours. the waves were going off again and not too many people were out. we are going to get swell after swell for the next 3 weeks so if you want to surf perfect summer waves in perfect weather, now is the time! the endless summer continues!

this is called sea cucumber or Namako in japanese. most local people in hawaii don’t eat it, but lots of japanese and chinese love it. you can find it anywhere on the island. and it’s actually kind of expensive.

a couple of weeks ago, some resident of waimanalo went to go see a fisherman’s catch on the beach. this fisherman came in with hundreds of namako in his boat. the lady took this photo, posted it on social media, and things got heated. it became big news for hawaii. lots of people got angry for this guy taking too much. and if you look at his catch, it is too much.
the problem: hawaii has no fishing laws. oh wait! we do, but nobody educates the fisherman on it. locals don’t know our fishing laws so nobody knows if they’re even being broken. i grew up on this island and fishing laws were never taught in school. and no government organization is educating the public. i find out here and there about it through friends. that’s about it.
this guy took too much namako. but hey, there are other fisherman on the island taking too much of everything. i see it all the time and even if you call the police, there is nothing they can do about it because even they don’t know about the fishing laws. what’s the solution? thank goodness to social media and thank goodness that everybody has iPhone cameras nowadays, the public is finally becoming aware. awareness is the key to protecting our island and resources. i want to thank this concerned resident for taking this photo and posting it. now the whole state of hawaii knows it it wrong. no, the guy didn’t go to jail, but it’s pretty embarrassing to get caught like this on this tiny island. that’s worst than jail. i’m sure all eyes are watching out for him and his boat. this was 2 weeks ago when it was actually legal to take this much namako.
after this, the government scrambled and made a rule effective immediately. thank you Governor Ige. let’s protect our resources before it’s all gone.
POSTED: 01:30 a.m. HST, Jun 27, 2015
The state Board of Land and Natural Resources unanimously approved an emergency rule Friday to ban sea cucumber harvesting for 120 days in Hawaii’s nearshore waters.
The rule, which Gov. David Ige approved late Friday, is effective immediately. A violation is considered a petty misdemeanor punishable by up to 30 days in jail, with criminal fines from $250 to $1,000 and administrative fines from $1,000 to $3,000.

first, i want to start off by thanking Dove Wetsuits for my new short sleeve top! i love it!
second, i was surfing yesterday with my go pro and while i was on a wave, the lip of the wave hit it out of my hand. i lost it in the white wash. the waves were big, there was white water everywhere, and the current was super strong. i was looking for it, but it was no where to be found. i was bummed. then my friends started helping me look for it. i told myself, “it’s gone, move on. if somebody finds it and gives it back to me, it was meant to be. if not, cannot help.” 1 hour passed and my friends were still looking for it. i paddled to magic island to tell them “no need already. but thanks anyway.” we all decided to give up and started paddling back to bowls across the channel. THEN!!! Keoni called me from 40′ away and said “HERE IT IS!” OMG, i was freaking so happy!

when i dropped the go pro, it was still filming. here is the reef 1 minute after i lost it.

then 12 minutes after, you can see the go pro going over the reef into the channel. gosh, we all knew this was going to happen. we were actually all looking in the right direction but to spot out such a small camera in the big ocean is like finding a needle in a haystack.

after Keoni found it, i gave him a big hug. i was so stoked! not bummed i lost the camera because a camera is replaceable. i was bummed because i lost the photos i took earlier that morning of Kawano-san. that is irreplaceable. Keoni saved the day!

and Kawano-san was ripping! short boarding and surfing so fast and good. this is a really nice bottom turn on a good size wave. losing this photo would have sucked!

and when the big closeout sets came, Kawano-san did exactly what you’re supposed to do. throw the board and dive under into the black hole.

Kawano-san on another good wave. gosh, the waves were perfect yesterday!
want to thank Keoni again for finding my go pro. and want to thank Reid, Yuko-chan, and Maki-chan for spending all that time looking for my camera. i know the waves were super epic, but you all chose to help me instead. i really appreciate that and know what true friends are. i owe you all a bunch of waves.
last, when i find things, i return it. i found go pros, and i returned it. maybe that’s why yesterday was meant to be? i truly believe it. thank you again. so the message is, “if you find something, return it. then when you lose something so precious, maybe you will get it back.” it’s called “Karma.”