Friday September19日 2025年

E and M Surfer Girls

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Great surfing Eiko-san and Maya-san!
Keep on surfing and see you again!

Mango Hide and Seek with Grandpa

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ever since i got back from my last food poisoning trip, i told myself to eat healthy. so recently, i started to change my diet from healthy, to healthier. breakfast is the most important meal of the day so better start off healthy to stay healthy.
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cut up some fruits, put it in a bowl.
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pour over some nonfat yogurt, granola, and top it off with honey. the perfect start to the perfect day!
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i missed my grandpa so i went to see him. my grandpa and grandma planted this mango tree a very very long time ago. it’s been providing fruit for the entire family for half a century.
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i can’t wait for these to get ripe. the juiciest mangos in hawaii! should be ready in a month or so.
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my Grandpa Osaki lived until he was 98 years old. now, my Grandpa Fukunaga is 95 years old and strong. so does that mean i’m going to live until my late 90’s too? if i do, i hope i can still smile like my grandpa and have a good sense of humor at that age.
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every play mango hide and seek? i do stupid things just to make my grandpa laugh. and he was laughing pretty hard at this. haha.
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walking through my grandma’s garden, i can smell the fresh flowers my grandma planted. yes, my grandma isn’t here anymore, but she will always have a very special place in my heart. gosh, i miss her so much. and when i leave my grandpa’s house, i get so sad thinking about how much he misses her too.

Blue Sky to Orange Sky to Black Sky

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yesterday was yet another amazing day. it totally feels like summer all of a sudden. the water is warm, the weather is warm, and there’s waves everyday in town. short drives, long days, and everybody seems to be enjoying it. watching the girls yesterday was super fun. i always wanted to be a teacher someday in a classroom. but now, i’m realizing my classroom is in the ocean, not in a building. one of these girls i’ve been teaching how to free dive, surf, and enjoy nature for a very long time. now she can take that knowledge and teach her friends. yes, i still stress education to the youth, but i also stress personal experiences. if you can have both, i think will make you a more complete person.
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dropped the girls off and picked up some friends for an afternoon surf. nothing like passing packed bowls and pulling up to a spot with nobody around. no hassling and no stress. just a few friends enjoying what the ocean provides. it’s days like this that make me realize the true meaning of surfing. Reid backside bottom turn.
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it blows my mind away how surfing makes me feel so good. i can have the worst day in my life and once i ride a wave, everything is gone. i don’t know what i would do without it.
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been kind of windy recently but once the winds back off, this spot will start to have clean barrels again. and we will be out there chasing it.
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getting back to crowded surf and uncrowded surf. i like both. sometimes i like to surf with everybody. and sometimes i like to surf with nobody. everyday changes and it’s cool to be able to chose either or. if you’re a nightlife person, it’s like going to the most happening club one night, and just hanging out at a mellow bar another night.
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the best way to end a perfect day. having a beer, listening to hawaiian music, and enjoying this beautiful island we call “Hawaii.”
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and the bonus of driving back to waikiki just in time for the fireworks! it’s like the icing on the cake!