Friday September19日 2025年

A Christmas Tree, A Cross, and A Full Moon

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had a great time with Ocean’s Love crew on both days. the first day, i could see the kids were still tense. but on the second day, they were all loose and ready to surf! it’s amazing how much they remember in just a day.
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Mari-chan’s 2nd year in hawaii. so pure and so precious.
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watching the kids smile is awesome. must be such a great feeling to feel so free.
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tandem surfing is not only fun, it’s pretty safe. safety is the most important so if these kids fall, they will fall on a big bean bag before hitting the reef. that big bean bag is me. haha.
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i was walking on a street at night near the beach in taiwan. three things caught my eye. a christmas tree, a cross, and the full moon. i had to take this photo and now that i finally got to upload it, i think it’s pretty amazing! one of the best night shots i’ve ever taken with my iPhone. this is “the moment.”

March 29, 2015 Hawaii Surf Report

The Bridge to Heaven? So beautiful!
Good morning 6am.
North shore coming up. 1′ now but 3-5′ this afternoon.
South shore waist with chest high sets.
Trade winds at 15-20mph.
Cloudy and rainy morning. Sunny afternoon.
Have a wonderful day!

Turtles on Fire

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it’s unbelievable how many turtles there are now. when i use to free dive 25 years ago, i’d only see one or two. now, i see 10 to 15 each time i free dive. there are so many that it’s even dangerous to drive a boat. ran another one over the other day, luckily didn’t crack the hull this time. turtles are protected by federal law and if you touch one or eat one, you can go to jail for a very long time. i’m wondering how much longer they will be protected because if you ask me, there are just too many. maybe that’s why shark attacks are on the rise?
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being creative during a photo shoot is important. this girl was pretty creative.
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after the duck dive.
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the glassy days should be over soon. trade winds are back from spring to fall.
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there was a huge fire yesterday. could see it from way out in the ocean. the whole mountain near UH was on fire. started at 10:30am and ended at 10pm. the whole south shore smelt like a big barbecue all day. and in the wind came black ashes.
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black ashes on a beautiful white boat don’t go well together. OMG.