wow! another awesome surfing day in hawaii. such perfect days everyday! was super stoked to surf with Tanisaka-san, Chizuru-san, and Kinuyo-san again. always laughing and always smiling. and of course, always surfing good.

Tanisaka-san was ripping this morning! super good waves and super smooth surfing. this was almost an off the SUP lip!

everybody asks me “where is your favorite place in the world.” and my answer is always “right here in hawaii!” i’ve been to so many places in the world, but hawaii will always be my home. look at this perfect wave as Tanisaka-san, speeds down the line. this is perfection!

when we get out of the water, i see a bag of lipstick, keys, coins, brushes, and all kinds of girl stuff scattered around on the ground right in the back of my truck. come to find out, there was a girl vs. girl fight! omg, i can’t believe i just missed the action by 10 minutes. 5 police cars, 2 women arrested, and lots of drama at the beach.

want to thank Tanisaka-san, Chizuru-san, and Kinuyo-san for a wonderful surfing morning and great pho lunch. enjoy your rest of your stay in hawaii and keep on surfing.

and thank you very much for the wonderful gift from japan!

i’m eating one right now! itadakimasu!

then it was round 2 in the afternoon. another great surfer, another great wave, another great time, and another great session. omg! the south swell is coming up! tomorrow should be head high and building over the weekend. i’m surfing till i can’t surf anymore! good night and see you in the water tomorrow.

Beautiful weather.
Beautiful waves.
Beautiful people.
Beautiful day.
Beautiful Hawaii.
Surf Your Dream

everyday i surf, i see a rainbow. in fact, sometimes i see hundreds of rainbows. all you have to do is position yourself behind a wave with the sun at your back. then go over the wave and watch the offshore spray fly off the wave. you will see it for sure.

there it is on the left side. a rainbow on every single wave. mornings and afternoons only. this is Yokomura-san into the rainbow. next time you go surfing, check it out.

for the past year, i’ve been seeing this little kid surfing every single day out at rock piles. he’s very shy and very quiet. i ask his name, he says “Aoi.” i ask his age, he says “12.” i keep on watching this kid trying and trying to get better every day. kind of reminded me when i was a kid his age surfing every day. so i go home, dig up an old Seth Moniz surfboard from under my house. i clean it up, take it to the beach, and give it to him. you should have seen his eyes. he was so happy but being so shy, he couldn’t express it. such a humble, quiet, and respectful kid. i wish i was like him when i was 12 years old, but instead, i was the total opposite. haha.

since then, i’ve been watching Aoi getting better and better on that magic board. watch out for this kid! Go-Aoi!