A woman Looking for a husband never had one.
Good morning 6am.
Ala Moana chest high and very clean.
Diamond Head head high sets and little bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sun, clouds, rain, and rainbows.
Warm weather.
Surfing all day.
See you in the water!

isn’t nature so amazing? this is a live volcano in Chile. i would love to see it with my own eyes in person. someday that day will come.

i want to thank Ueno-san for sending me his new CD “Silent Time.” super cool surfer rocker!!!

thank you Ueno-san. hope all is going well with your wonderful family. please tell your 2 beautiful daughters Mari-chan and Ai-chan i said hello. keep on rocking!

wow, i ate it all! thank you Komatsubara-san for hitting my sweet spot!

i woke up this morning with a text photo from my friend Reid. i had to look twice, or even three times. i knew the surfer was Kelia Moniz, but i couldn’t comprehend her charging such a huge wave. no, this is not photoshop, this is freaking real! Kelia is in Tahiti charging big Teahupoo. i don’t know who the heck gave her permission to surf this wave. i know her mom, dad, brothers, and uncles wouldn’t let her do it. and if i was there, i wouldn’t dare let her even try. Teahupoo kills. it’s the deadliest wave in the world. yes, Kelia is 2x world champion, but this is out of her league. and riding a long 9’0 longboard makes it more impossible. after i seen this photo, i knew she didn’t make the drop. just way too steep for a long board. but if she had a 6’6 short board, she could have made it easily.

yes, she fell. and when you fall at Teahupoo, you don’t penetrate, you slide. sliding down a powerful wave with only 3′ of water below you is like staring death in the eyes. whoever let her ride that wave is a very lucky man Kelia is still alive. don’t you dare let her do that crap again. lucky she is alive and i have a message to Kelia, “get your ass home and stop doing stupid things.” but hey, i have to say i’m very proud of you. and i’m sure your brothers are very very jealous. haha.

ok, if you’ve been surfing for a long time, you will remember all the memorable songs. whether it’s from an old surf movie or an old surf memory, a song can go a long way. and when you hear it years and years later, it brings back that special moment in time. your mind goes back 30 years and you will feel like you are reliving the moment. you start to smile, you start to sing, and you even start to tear.
so when i heard on the radio about the concert happening at the waikiki shell on july 11, i had chicken skin. Christopher Cross with his all time classic song “Sailing.” The Little River Band with their hit “Cool Change” that played in the famous surf movie Storm Riders. and Kalapana with too many hits to list, including “Many Classic Moments.” not 3 separate concerts, but all 3 of these groups playing at the same concert! omg, it’s like a classic surfers dream concert.

i remember listening to “Sailing” in 7th grade at Niu Valley Intermediate School. my woodshop teacher would play it every morning in class. it stuck with me all these years and when ever i go on a boat trip, i put on my headphones, play “Sailing,” and remember all those great teenage memories.

almost every hard core japanese surfer knows the song “Cool Change.” another song that brings back just too many good memories.

and yes, Kalapana was the hawaiian surf group that the whole world knows. i went to every concert in the 80’s. jumping over the fence with my surfer friends, hiding in the bushes, and listening to songs like “Many Classic Moments and Naturally.”
listen to the song “Cool Change” by The Little River Band and sing along. get ready for the chicken skin!
[youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bhAp_SPd7e4[/youtube]