Thursday September18日 2025年

Surfs up!


@ SFO

National Geographic Hawaii Day!

Screen shot 2015-02-22 at 6.02.20 PM
when ever i run into a pod of wild dolphins, i’m pretty stoked. not the pods on the west side that tour boats chase 365 days a year, but wild pods right out near diamond head that don’t get disturbed often. you can tell how curios they are by looking into their eyes. such amazing creatures.
Screen shot 2015-02-22 at 6.03.15 PM
and when i can share my experiences to the younger generation, that makes it all better. i teach kids about nature. i teach them not to disturb it, not to damage it, and not to destroy it. just see it, feel it, and absorb every minute of it.
Screen shot 2015-02-22 at 6.03.53 PM
the world i love most. can’t beat it.
Screen shot 2015-02-23 at 1.03.01 PM
i’ve been teaching this young lady how to surf, dive, and survive for the past 13 years. it’s so rewarding to see her grow into the little mermaid she’s become.
Screen shot 2015-02-23 at 1.00.58 PM
one last look of the hundreds of dolphins that swam with us. a national geographic day that a normal kid could never learn in school.
Screen shot 2015-02-14 at 2.02.34 PM
when i first rode this 11’0 longboard, i tried to turn and fell off. just so big and bulky. but after feeling it out, i realized that there is a small sweet spot. and if you stand in that small sweet spot, the board turns into magic. so magic that i can even get barreled!
Screen shot 2015-02-14 at 1.59.47 PM
and i can even stand up on it and do yoga. haha.

New York Flat

IMG_4882
instead of staying at a $200/night hotel, i opted to go on airbnb and search for a share apartment. at $60, i found one. made the reservation, got the address, and tried to find my way there. yes, i was kind of lost. and being lost in the side streets of new york isn’t fun.
IMG_4881
finally found the building and walked in. very old and felt like i was walking into some scene from “The Godfather.” haha.
IMG_4880
simple room just to sleep. it’s like sleeping over at your friends house.
IMG_4896
thank goodness i found some kombucha! i was so happy to have my first one in a while!
IMG_4889
the night before, i ate too much oily food and got food poisoning. i was rolling in bed all light with a stomach ache and had to go to the bathroom over and over. all the poisons came out, so now i’m only going to reload my body with healthy food. starting with a fresh new york acai bowl!