super good sessions with Uchiyama-san. cool surfer from Chigasaki with so many awesome dreams.

morning session was low tide so you had to choose the right one. Uchiyama-san on the right one.

afternoon was easier. all the waves were pretty much open. if you were in the right place, you will get the right wave. just like this.

great surfing!

glassy off shore conditions. a surfers dream. thank you again Uchiyama-san!

and yeah, i had to get a few waves for myself too. barrel again!

cutback.

word travels fast here in hawaii. everybody’s been asking me about Super Sunday at big rights. it was incredible. solid 6′ sets and looking like Off The Wall. only a few guys out because most surfers couldn’t make it out. had a great time in the lineup talking to my longtime friend Ross Williams. just taking turns pulling into barrel after barrel. after i caught mine, i seen Ross paddling for a good one. i pull my camera out of my pocket and snap a few shots as i paddle over the wave. i came home and couldn’t believe the results! here is Ross setting up to get barreled. look how big this wave is and look at the barrel behind him. freaking amazing!

you probably never ever seen a barrel shot like this at Big Rights before because it never ever barrels like this. no photographers were out except me taking these photos of this one wave. so here it is, Ross Williams in the big barrel. you might have to wait another 30 years to see something so amazing like this out there. solid 6′, light off shore, clean water, blue sky, and epic waves. can you believe this is Honolulu, Hawaii? i can’t. i’ve never missed a good day out at Big Rights because i was always waiting for a day like this. that day has finally come. July 26, 2015. amen.

Nice Catch!
Good morning 6am.
Chest high at Ala Moana. Very clean.
Diamond Head shoulder high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 15mph.
Sunny, showers, and rainbows.
Surfing all day.
Have a wonderful day!

they finally chopped up the sailboat and put it in this dumpster. the beach is finally clean again. i was talking to the salvage guy and he told me that the captain was trying to ride a wave out near the buoy with his sailboat. bad idea! he crashed into the reef, he went to the hospital, and he had no insurance. so the state of hawaii had to pay for the salvage. our taxpayer money??? OMG!

once again, the waves were good today. some leftover 4′ sets and great conditions. incredible swell.

went surfing with Uchiyama-san today. we surfed 2 rounds both on the low tide and high tide. afternoon was much better. score!

then we went deep into china town for lunch. my favorite dim sum restaurant.

and my favorite sweet sour cabbage with pork rice noodles. omg, so good!

and of course, dessert.

such a wonderful couple. we had such a great time surfing and eating all day. thank you Uchiyama-san and Tomomi-san!

33 degrees celsius in 98 degrees fahrenheit. that’s pretty dam hot! but the good thing is you don’t sweat because the cool trade winds is like a free air conditioner. our perfect summer continues…

gosh, i’m just loving life! my hand is still sore and burning so bad. it won’t heal because i’m in the water everyday all day long. but once i ride a wave, all the pain goes away. surfing is healing magic!

oh, and yet another hurricane coming next week? the last one disappeared and this one is supposed to hit us. more waves coming!

want to thank Maneuverline Japan for the cool Cobian slippers. stoked but i hope nobody steals them.
going sleep early. tomorrow yet another full day of surfing. good night.