had a great surf with a wonderful couple today. awesome big waves and long rides. so stoked to see the smiles after each ride. gosh, i love my job!

wanted to wish my friend Reid a speedy recovery from his injury. when you get hurt, it’s one thing. when your board gets hurt, it’s another. and when both happen, it’s shocking! hope to see you back in the water soon Reid.

two 14 year old florida kids are still missing at sea. they took out their boat and never came back. the boat was found capsized, but the kids were nowhere to be seen. i hope they find them soon.

i’ve never seen a surf report for the south shore 10-15′ before. three days of 10-15′ solid surf! unbelievable.

the ocean is the best place for me. the more i go into it, the more i love it. absolutely no stress. my personal power spot.

yesterday was absolutely the best big rights i’ve ever surfed. i surfed it 2x timing the tide and wind. couldn’t have timed it any better. surfed with a few friends exchanging barrels after barrels. here is Jun Jo taking off on a nice one!

then the evening session was even better. i planned to surf for 30 minutes but ended up staying out for over 3 hours. it just kept on getting better and better. i’d have to say it was my best session in my whole life on the south shore of oahu. pulling into thick stand up barrels and getting spit out was a dream. i got more barrels in the past 2 days than i got the entire 2014. i still can’t believe it.

on the way in, i picked up Micah at bowls and gave him a ride in. he told me “uncle, these past 2 days have been unreal. i’m so satisfied.”

then for the 2nd night in a row when i was washing the boat, the fireworks went off again! why? usually it’s only on fridays, but it went off on saturday and sunday. i think they did it for us surfers for scoring the best south swell in 30 years. thank you Hawaiian Hilton Hotel.

as the sun was setting, i was waiting on the outside with Jason Shibata. i told him, “brah, this is like indonesia!” he said “yeah, just like indonesia but without traveling to the other side of the world and spending $5,000.” we all claimed the waves were breaking just as good as HT’s and had our own private $30,000 boat trip session. we were totally laughing taking turns getting perfect barrel after barrel. we were yelling “HT’s, HT’s” before someone would go. it was a session none of us will never ever forget. thanks Jason, Gen, Cole, and Kaylen for the awesome experience. this is what surfing is all about!

OMG!

omg, i was super surfed out after the morning session so i came home and took a nap. the winds came onshore too the waves got junk around lunch time. i woke up from my nap at 3pm, then felt the cool trade winds coming into my window. i knew the waves were going to get good so i jumped into the truck, then boat, and went out to big rights. OMG! it was going off! off shore and nobody out. everybody went in because it was junky earlier so we had it all to ourselves. super good friends came out soon after and we exchanged epic barrels and barrels. light off shore winds and perfect shape barrels. it was the best big rights session of my lifetime and i’ve been surfing out there for 30 years. it was unbelievable!

yesterdays action at bowls was incredible too. back to the front row watching my friends catching awesome waves. take off by Troy.

every single wave was pretty much barreling. all you had to do was make the bottom turn and you will get a barrel for sure. that easy.

this was one of the clean ones. super glassy and super smooth. the perfect bottom turn.

coming in the ala wai channel is so dangerous. even when it’s calm, it’s dangerous. but when the waves are big, it’s super dangerous. you better know what the heck you’re doing. have to time the sets, have to play the currents, and have to be alert. not captains alert, but surfers alert. if you’re not alert, this will happen to your dream yacht. i see this all the time.

i drove over to bowls to see the damage for myself. so depressing watching a big sailboat like this smash the reef and leak oil and gas into the ocean and sand.

if i had to take this out of the water, i would get a big crane and lift it out from the beach. it’s going to cost about $80,000 so i hope the owner has insurance.

this is so sad.