i sat on the bench yesterday morning and shot photos for 1 hour. check out the action.

when i paddled out in the morning, this kid was sitting on the beach waiting for it to get lighted so he can surf. once he could see a wave, he was on it! all by himself catching wave after wave in the inside.

3 hours later and still going strong. even looking for the barrels on the shorebreak. this kid is going to get good!

yes, lifeguards start work at 8:30am. so if you surf before that, be careful because you are on your own!

seen some little kids ripping out there.

then seen the japanese pro boys paddling out. Teppei Tajima always smiling and always ripping.

then seen Ryu Nakamura getting ready for the action.

Ryu caught a really good one right as he got out. great timing!

somebody asked me the other day “does Glenn Minami surf?” i said “omg, Glenn Minami charges! he surfs huge waves all the time!” this was Glenn’s second round of the morning.

more ripping at haleiwa.

and more broken boards too.

Angela Maki Vernon paddled out early in the morning. soon after, she broke her leash. she came back in, changed her leash, and paddled back out. next, a huge 10′ freak set came in and she barely made it over. but not her surfboard. figure her board is 9′ long. look how small it looks.

i see half of her board washing in on a wave. then the other half she rode in.

super tough girl. how tough? the waves were huge and the only other girl that had the courage to paddle out was World Champion Carissa Moore. good job Maki!

Walking on the moon.
Good morning 6:45am.
North shore EPIC! 3-5′ and best conditions! Everywhere going off! Backdoor best. South shore waist high and clean. Diamond Head best.
No wind.
Super sunny and warm.
Go and enjoy!
Have a wonderful day!

Surf North to South.
I love them both.
Have a wonderful evening.