On the beach in El Tunco!
Cheers!

simple life, simple kitchen.

my first session at Punta Roca was epic! perfect waves, perfect weather, and perfect time. stoked this photographer got these shots from the water. look closely and check out the rainbow off the back of the wave. i saw over a hundred rainbows this morning!

i came here to surf, and surfing is what i’ve been doing every day. going out at dawn and enjoying the beautiful waves of el salvador.

since i got here 3 days ago, i caught over a hundred good waves. barrels, ripping, long rides, and just enjoying every second of every ride. got 2 more days till i’m out of here. until then, i’m surfing, surfing, and surfing.

i just found out that there was an accident at LGA airport in new york. a flight from ATL to LGA is the exact same one I’m taking on sunday. i’m not surprised about the accident, i’m surprised on how much snow there is! shit happens and that’s why i always encourage everyone to enjoy their life.

ever since i was a kid, i probably watched over a thousand sunsets waiting for the green flash. till this day, i only seen one and that was in hawaii. well, yesterday was the second of my lifetime. i couldn’t believe how beautiful it was. super big green/red flash as i was standing on the beach with my surfboard. it was such an amazing moment. i wanted to hug someone near me but nobody was around. haha.

the sun setting on one side, and the moon rising on the other. epic weather for the past 3 days.

feels like heaven.

this is a very small world. i never thought in my wildest dreams that i would see Satoko here in el salvador. she came with her 2 amigos Ambo-san and Shin-san from cancun for a vacation. we hooked up, and the rest is memories and memories in the making. in fact, today’s session was so magical that i can’t even describe it. perfect waves, only us with 2 locals, photos, video, sunset, seagulls, and excellent riding. a super session that will go down in the top 5 sessions of my life.
gotta sleep because tomorrow my alarm is set for 4:30am. going to surf some secret spot an hour down the road with locals. supposed to be a super secret beach break that barrels! good night.

it’s been such an amazing time here in el salvador. before i came, i had no idea how the waves and everything would be. all i wanted to do was to experience something different, surf everyday, and relax. i couldn’t have chosen a better place. the surf is amazing here. super good timing as it’s been pumping every single day. point breaks, reef breaks, beach breaks, and river mouths. el salvador has it all. did another dawn patrol this morning about an hour drive away. us 4 amigos and 2 local amigos piled into one small car went to surf this amazing beach break with no one around.

there is no wave in hawaii i can compare this place too. just totally different. just perfect glassy and smooth morning conditions. the face of a wave is like art. you can do the biggest carves of your life. rail to rail surfing to the fullest. i can’t even count how many carves, off the lips, cutbacks, and barrels i had in the past 3 days. i’m pretty much surfed out and the cool thing is the whole trip was documented by a land photographer, water photographer, and videographer catching each and every moment. now i can go back home, study my surfing, and find ways to improve. i haven’t had so many photos and video like this in a long time because i’m usually the one shooting. i know it’s going to help my surfing and if i start to surf better, i’ll feel better, and i’ll live better. simple.
just checked the weather report for new york and seen -2 degrees. omg! i’m going from cheap hot paradise, to expensive cold concrete jungle. looking forward to freezing again. but soon, i’ll be back in hawaii and feeling once again fresh, satisfied, and content. a long way home but nothing is new. just have to enjoy the ride!