yesterday it looked like this. the sailboat dragged all the way from the outside of rock piles all the way to the beach. the waves pushing it towards shore smashing and killing the reef. so sad to see this.

not often you will see a sailboat come this far in. thanks to the most powerful swell of the century.

and debris everywhere. this you can pick up, but the gas and oil you can’t.

such a beautiful sail boat going to waste.

am i a typhoon magnet or what? another one coming towards hawaii. more waves on the way.

had a great surf session with Matsumoto-san this morning. waves were huge but he charged! some solid 5′ sets at bowls but we still surfed for 3 solid hours.

i heard from Maki-san that the Yajima-ya lunch wagon makes the best mushroom chicken. so we went to try it out for the first time.

the cool thing about japanese people opening businesses in hawaii is you know there will be quality food and good service. that’s just the japanese style.

with all the ahi fever, there are ahi specials.

Matsumoto-san ordered the ahi belly and it looked delicious. $11.

i ordered the mushroom chicken and it was delicious. $9. thank you Matsumoto-san for a wonderful surf and lunch. and thank you Maki-san for telling me a great place to eat.

today the boat was way up on the beach. everything gone. i’m sure the owner came and took stuff, and i’m sure other people came and took stuff too. tomorrow i think they will cut it up and put it in the rubbish can. i can’t wait to get it off this beautiful beach.

Josh Moniz made it past round 1 today and will be surfing in round 2 tomorrow against Dane Reynolds. the U.S Open is the biggest contest in california and i’m stoked Joshua is representing hawaii. Go-Josh!
well, the swell is still solid. 5′ sets this evening and still pumping. i’m completely surfed out so when i was surfing today, i was mostly watching. watching the solid swells pumping in making everybody so dam happy!
oh, i taught this amazing family how to surf this afternoon. mother, father, and 2 little cute sons. all for the first time and all did great! so stoked! then we ate shave ice and now i’m sure they are all sleeping very good. i sure will. goodnight.

Still here.

peak summer in japan so peak crowds at the pool. unbelievable.

OMG, japan is so small! i’ve been surfing with Nakamoto-san for the past few years in hawaii. i told him that he should go to eat ramen at Marutaya when he surfs in wakayama. so i get my seat, look to the left on the table next to us, and see Nakamoto-san! OMG! freaky! anyway, i wanted to say hi to his wonderful surf team. super stoked to meet you all!

i thought my chickens stopped laying eggs because when i got home, there were no eggs. come to find out, they found a new nest!

yeah, my fresh eggs again! can’t wait to eat um!

on the first day, i rode my short board. there were a few waves that i got in late and missed a good barrel. next day, i rode a longer board. no problem as i got into every barrel i paddled for. everybody else was on their small boards too and usually it’s ok. but this swell, no way! here is Glenn Minami getting a backdoor wave on his short board. after this, he paddled in to get his longer board. good call.

do you believe in mermaids? i sure do. i came in from surfing yesterday and seen the cutest mermaid on the beach waiting for me. i take her hand, we go back into the ocean and swim with the dolphins. we had lunch by eating a few lobsters and octopus, then she brought me back to the beach and we said our goodbyes. gosh, it was love at first sight!