had a great time surfing with Hosokawa-san. super nice guy who loves to surf. great rides and great smile!

thank you Hosokawa-san! keep on surfing forever!

surfing has come a very long way. there’s big money to be made in contests, sponsorships, and businesses. and add the social media, you got a multi billion dollar business. the only bummer thing is it’s harder than ever to make a living for an inspiring pro surfer. there is so much talent out there but not enough sponsorship money to go around. i’m sure things will get better as mainstream surfing gets bigger. until then, never give up!

did you hear about the new condos that are popping up above ala moana shopping center? it’s called Park Lane Ala Moana and the penthouse units are going for $28M. yes, $28M is 3,316,600,000.00 JPY. yes, count the zeros. hawaii real estate is booming!

i’ve been surfing a lot recently, in fact, probably the most ever in my life. surfing is the only sport/hobby/activity/job that i could never get bored of. i surf in the morning, i surf in the evening, and i surf in my sleep. surfing is pretty much my life. the best feeling in the world. so if you’ve never tried it before, please do!

had another super fun 3.5 hour surfing session with Mio-san yesterday evening. i watched this girl transform from a longboarder to a shortboarder in just 2 days. surfing really solid, catching her own waves, and enjoying every ride. super stoked for her!

Thank you Mio-san for the goodie bag! i love japanese culture and love getting treats like this.

someday i will be able to read kanji. but for now, i’ll just take my chances and eat everything i get. so far, so excellent.

i was fixing surfboards yesterday morning. getting dirty, itchy, and trying to focus on doing my best.

yes, it’s back to summer weather here in hawaii. cool nights and very warm days. sunny and perfect!

i’ve been hooked on my WR250. just like to come home from a long day, jumping on it, riding up a mountain, and enjoying the view and fresh air. finding some bamboo forest with no end to the other side this day.
then i came home the other day after surfing 7 hours ready to head to the mountain for sunset time. wanted to jump on the motorcycle but something seemed wrong? there were scratches all over, and the handlebars were bent??? OMG! my nieces boyfriend used it earlier that day and crashed it into a car!!! OMG! shock!

Be careful women!
Good morning 6am.
North shore 2′ in the morning building to 10′ late tonight.
Bigger 12′ swell on Friday.
South shore waist high and fun.
No wind so perfect morning conditions, onshore by 10am.
Super sunny and very warm.
Busy day for me!
Have a wonderful day!