in japan, there is one day out of the year when the sun rises aligned with Mt. Fuji. i never got to see it before but someday i will. in hawaii, i can watch the diamond of diamond head sunrise for 2 months. all i have to do is jump on the boat and align myself with diamond head and the sunrise. then i take the photo and have a beautiful day. isn’t this amazing?

there are only a handful of houses in hawaii where you can park a boat in your back yard. someday i will own one of them. the cheapest is about $3M but i’m a big dreamer. and when that day comes, you won’t see me driving a car ever again. i’ll jump on the boat everyday, drive to some yacht club, and jump on a motorcycle that will be parked there. no traffic. sounds like a dream yeah? yeah! but for now, i’ll just go pick up my friends and keep on dreaming. welcome aboard to my photographer cousin Daniel.

Koguma-san and Enomoto-san were very lucky this day. it was the absolutely perfect day to have a hawaiian south shore boat trip. it was just us and the outer reef waves peeling perfectly both ways.

and after a good session, there’s always a good smile. great 4 hour dream session boys!

then we go to the most local of the local stores for lunch. so local that there are no tables. order a plate and eat it on the sidewalk local style.

thank you Koguma-san and Enomoto-san for the dream session and treats. i forgot to tell you that i had just as much fun as you did. and thank you Enomoto-san for sending me the text “PRICELESS.” that is how i live my life and it’s the priceless moments that make life so priceless. keep on surfing boys!

Hard Worker.
Good morning 6:20am.
North shore 4-6′ and clean. Laniakea, Rocky Point, and Sunset Point best!
South shore waist high and clean.
East shore 3-5′. Sandy Beach probably good.
Everywhere clean. Light East winds at 5mph.
Overcast but becoming sunny and very warm.
Next week Tuesday 15′ North/West swell!
Surfing 2 rounds today.
Have a wonderful day!

wow, woke up early morning at 5am, drank my kombucha, did my exercise, ate cereal, felt so good, then went surfing.

had a wonderful morning with Hosokawa-san. he is from Yamagata and to tell you the truth, i didn’t know where Yamagata even was. found out it is above niigata and below akita. lots of snow and freezing cold. Hosokawa-san and his wonderful family are here for only 3 days. they came yesterday, and are already going home tomorrow. a very short trip but very long waves. i was so stoked to see Hosokawa-san riding so many long waves in the perfect weather and perfect swells. shoulder high sets, uncrowded, and perfect conditions.

i meet the coolest families all the time. just to see the wife and kids enjoying hawaii makes me really happy. Yuka-san, Hinari-chan, and Sakuya-kun. fun in the sun on the beach, then we ate some hot pho after for lunch.

then took the kids for the best shave ice in the world.

such cuties! rainbow shave ice with ice cream in the bottom. you should have seen their eyes when they reached the ice cream. so cute and so funny!

and i can’t wait to eat this wonderful mochi from Yamagata prefecture. eat a few with kinako, and eat a few wrapped with nori and dipped in shoyu. thank you to the Hosokawa-san family! have a safe flight back to japan tomorrow!