OMG, it was so good!
Thank you Iwasaki-san!

i had a super fun session with Shuudo-san and Chihiro-san from tokyo.

father and daughter on the same wave? i think that’s the coolest thing in the world!

and the side view. Chihiro-san and Shuudo-san surfing into diamond head.

nice smiles, nice surfing, and nice memory.

Chihiro-san’s last wave was huge! head high and charging. good job girl!

2 days ago, it was the coldest morning in 100 years. i woke up at 4:30am and thought i was in tohoku. big snow storm on the big island, frosty windows on cars, lots of jackets, and very cold feet. it’s times like this i appreciate my heated seats in the truck. i hope we don’t break anymore cold records.

a few months ago, policemen in new york took down this big man and choked him to death. yeah, he died. the policeman didn’t go to jail. the public was outraged. demonstrations all around america crying for justice. then a man pulled up to 2 policemen in new york and shot and killed them. he claimed revenge. you probably heard about this in the news. some think police officers abuse their authority. and yes, some do. but most don’t. i can feel for both sides. but in the end, nobody wins, everybody loses. and in this case, 4 people lost and i hope nobody else does. let’s have peace guys.

Don’t look back: Coolest Surf Photo.
Good morning 6:15am.
North shore 10′ from the North.
Check Laniakea and Sunset Beach. Big and bumpy.
South shore knee/wasit high.
North/East winds at 20mph.
Clouds, sun, showers, and rainbows.
Much warmer than the past few days.
Surfing all day again!
See you in the water.