had an awesome time with Seigo-san when he was in hawaii. finally got to see the photos he and i took from that day. just the 2 of us surfing our secret spot.

pretty shallow secret spot. maybe that’s why nobody comes here? haha.

i got a photo of Seigo-san duck diving. look how close he is to the reef. pretty cool!

and yes, the water is always clean there. i just love watching waves from under the water. it is like free art!

so we start heading back and see the pod of dolphins. i give Seigo-san my camera and tell him “jump in!”

he grabs it, and jumps in.

i position myself right where i think the dolphins will swim.

Seigo-san jumps in and seen something he’s never seen before. maybe that’s why he’s so happy! dolphins everywhere!

Seigo-san gets the shots. photos don’t give justice to the situation. to see it with your own eyes is mind blowing. i’ve swam with dolphins over a hundred times and i still get so excited.

the most beautiful creatures in the world.

then Seigo-san is done. the dolphins are gone, but the smile continues. just a very lucky day surfing all alone and swimming with the dolphins all alone. no tourist, no noise, no other people. just us and nature at it’s purest. can’t wait to do it again!

What kind of car?
Good morning 6:10am.
North shore 1-2′ and junky.
South shore waist high and clean.
Windy North/East winds at 20mph.
Cloudy becoming sunny later.
Going surfing.
Have a wonderful day!

passed by downtown today and always in awe when i see this painting on the side of the building. the biggest barrel in the world!

i can stare at this all day long and dream about pulling into one of these someday. and no, i wouldn’t be scared because high risk, high return. that’s my life!

went out for another afternoon session today. always so peaceful and so beautiful on the ocean.

had a great surf, talk, and time with Matchi. my friend since 1992. also one of the first surfers i met in japan. we had some great memories traveling this world over the past 23 years. never forget!

another amazing sunset!

red stripe and poke. jamaica and hawaii. a really great combo after a really great off shore surf session. cheers!

even when the sun sets, the sky turns all different colors. tonights was deep purple.

came in at night again. always so beautiful and always the best way to end a wonderful day.

it’s the 3rd time i came back to the harbor and my slippers were gone! no, nobody stole it. actually, the wind stole it. it blew it off the dock and gone with the wind. went home barefoot.

thank you Matchi for the awesome evening session time. and thank you for the cool fins!

Jimmy Hendrix! oh yeah! can’t wait to surf you!