ok guys, waves on the north shore finally came up! seen some 10-12′ sets this evening and looks like the World Cup at Sunset will be a GO tomorrow morning! good luck Seth and Isaiah Moniz!

went to visit grandpa this morning. i can’t believe he’s 95 years old and super fine! we were talking about the old days and he told me “hey kirby, you were very stubborn when you were a kid. your brother mason was stubborn, but you were 2x more stubborn than him.” grandpa told me stories when i use to refuse to get into the car and just try to walk home from places on the opposite side of the island. him and grandma would drive along the side of me in the car yelling at me to get it. i use to refuse. then my grandma would get out of the car, grab me, and pull me in. i use to kick and cry. haha. we were just laughing! of course, i don’t remember any of that, but my grandpa sure does. we talked for a while over hot chocolate and after i left this morning, i felt so happy that my grandpa is still laughing and smiling. that is the key to a long life!

when i took the South Shore Monkey’s surfing yesterday, one of the girls fell off in the shallow reef. i jumped off my board and pushed her up from hitting the reef. yes, it was this shallow. when i seen this photo my camera shot, i realized it was a very close call. next time we will surf in a little deeper water.

the South Shore Monkey club went from one girl to 4 girls. i just sit in the lineup thinking to myself “wow, these girls will be friends forever.” a bond surfing creates.

ok, after every trip, people ask me to scale things from a level of 1 to 10, 10 being the best. i never rate anything a perfect 10 because i feel that there is always something better out there. that’s what keeps me going on these trips. BUT, there was this one trip that was probably a 9.8. waves like this for the whole trip. uncrowded and just mind blowing. i couldn’t count how many barrels i made on that trip but this was just one of the hundreds. surf your dream? yes, that’s what we do!

and these were the members of that awesome go-naminori dream trip. i’m sure if you asked each and every one of these members, they would tell you the same thing, “this trip was the best waves we surfed in our lives!” i would have to agree.

it’s so weird how a man’s mind works. men want toys. men need toys. and men get toys. when they find something they want, they will find any and every way to get it. it’s something women will never understand. haha.

ever since i was a kid, i always wanted a dirt bike. i went into the mountains on borrowed bikes that broke down on me. my friends always had the top of the line models. i couldn’t afford one. that was 25 years ago when i didn’t have money because i didn’t save money. now i save money so i can buy the things i want. my brother and nephews have been avid dirt bike riders for the past 20 years. i wasn’t interested because of all those memories i had in the mountains with the junk borrowed bikes. then as i was driving home the other day, i seen this guy on a blue motorcycle coming out of the valley with a dirt bike. an enduro to be exact. an enduro is a dirt bike that can also be ridden on the street. so i come home and research what i seen. this was it! a 2015 Yamaha WR250R. omg, i want one! i can ride around town, get bored, then take it into the mountains. i know some long hiking trails that lead to beautiful panoramic views that i would love to ride too. now the hunt is on! i gave out the word to friends that i’m looking for one. and as soon as i find a good used one, i’m buying it and heading to the mountains!

i was actually going to put some surf racks on too. then after a morning surf, i can go ride some trails somewhere. i’m getting pretty excited. don’t be surprised if you see me smoking up and down the mountains and streets someday soon. i’m a man. men want toys. and men get toys. haha.

a lot of intermediate level surfers ask me how to do a cutback. it’s pretty simple. you turn your arms, body, and head in the direction you want to go. and you will go. most intermediate level surfers tend to look down so they go down. understand? look at my eyes, i’m following the line i want to go too. got it?

been looking at the world surf forecast closely. things are changing by the day. i’m not too worried about it because i learned how to go with the flow. the ocean will predict my destination. and where i will be next week will be up to her. simple.

I love this photo!!!
Good morning 6am.
North shore 2-3′ now but GROWING!
Buoy 1 was 9′ at 19 seconds last night 11:50pm.
Solid 8′ North/West coming today.
South shore waist high and clean.
Lighter winds today so cleaner conditions everywhere.
Clouds, sun, showers, and rainbows.
Sunset Pro contest probably on Stand-by.
Have a wonderful day!