gosh, i have about a hundred photos on my desktop waiting to get posted to blogs. starting to fall behind because the action is happening too fast for me to keep up. i have Seigo-san and Yuki-san for 3 full days so i know that time will fly, and so will our adventures. so better start off with yesterday’s day 1.

Seigo-san is the owner of Marutaya Ramen. very successful ramen shops in wakayama that is a must go place for me. Yuki-san is one of the managers. a young boy at 22 years old. Seigo-san is teaching him how to be a good worker, and how to enjoy hawaii. both very important to a successful career. and of course surfing completes the happy circle of success.

look at the clouds! freaking amazing! when i was in high school, we use to call these “swell clouds.” it is rare when the clouds form like this in hawaii but when it does, you know the waves are going to be good. and yes, the clouds were right ever since high school!

Yuki-san’s first complete ride! right into the swell clouds, waikiki, and diamond head.

japanese surfers are very well mannered. they will never drop in, or never even paddle for a wave someone else is paddling for. in japan, it’s a rule. but in hawaii, my rule is “if i say go, GO!” i was yelling “go, go” to Seigo-san but he still didn’t want to drop in on me. i paddled back out and said “hey Seigo-san, this is hawaii. if i say go, you must GO!” he said “hai.”

next wave, i say “go” and Seigo-san goes! a perfect wave!!! i surfed with Seigo-san before but yesterday, he shined on the big waves!

and most japanese surfers don’t like to go backside. and i tell each and every one, “hey, if you can’t go backside, you will never be able to do a cutback. doing a bottom turn backside is the other half to complete a successful frontside cutback.” Seigo-san kept on practicing backside, and by the end of the day, he did his first ever frontside cutback! i was so stoked for him!

in the beginning, Yuki-san kept on looking down and falling down. i kept on telling him “if you look down, you will fall down.” then he focused on looking straight at the hotels and surfed perfectly. i can’t wait to take him surfing again. look forward Yuki-san!

Seigo-san was super stoked that his surfing went up a few levels just in one day. he was ripping!

and yes, i got to get a few waves of my own. longboard, shortboard, knee high, 20′, i’m super happy to be surfing! surfing is my life, everything else has to go around it. sorry.

and a photo from our amazing blue water turtle dive. it was freaking amazing! imagine Yuki-san’s first time out of japan and into the deep blue seeing this and connecting with nature. i would freak out!

Keep Strong!
Good morning 4am.
North shore 2-4′ and coming down. Super clean.
South shore chest high and super clean.
Perfect waves everywhere!
No wind.
Sunny and very warm.
Clean water, clean air, clean waves.
Going Naminori all day!
See you in the water.

before i slept last night, i knew it was going to be an awesome day. and it turned out to be even better than awesome.

Seigo-san and Yuki-san from Marutaya Ramen in wakayama. Seigo-san already a good surfer, and Yuki-san’s first time. the waves were BIG but Yuki-san charged! a first timer paddling out on constant head high waves. perfect conditions and great rides! after our session, we went to eat a poke bowl and ono seafood. $8.50 for a super bowl combo with drink. can’t go wrong.

i ordered the shoyu ahi/hawaiian ahi combo. pretty healthy and super good.

then we had time to burn off the calories from lunch so we went out to the ocean. gosh, it’s been a long time since i got out into the deep blue. today seemed like the most beautiful day of 2015. it was flawless.

usually out this far is really rough. it’s 100′ deep but seemed like a lake. super stoked to run into 2 turtles sun bathing. we ended up jumping in and swimming with them. it was awesome.

the water was super clean. just slick oil surface with deep blue all the way down to the white sand. you could see everything! then we went to the outside and seen a huge whale! luckily got to see the whole tail coming out of the water. super lucky day in nature.

it is Yuki-san’s first time to hawaii. in fact, it’s Yuki-san’s first time leaving japan. the country boy soaking up the surf, sun, and fun in paradise.

Seigo-san on round 2. he must have caught a total of 50 waves today. i taught him a few tricks and he was ripping more and more after each wave. today was the first time he ever did an off the lip, and the first time he did a cutback. i could tell in his facial expression that he was surprised, and super stoked. we will surf all day for the next 2 days so after 2 more days of boot camp, he will be surfing 10x better than he did before he came to hawaii. waves and weather forecast looking perfect so going to dawn patrol tomorrow morning. thanks boys for the awesome full day of fun! and OMG, i’m so bummed the US customs took away the Marutaya Ramen and Yamari Shirasu. i’m so shocked! but i’m sure the boys down at customs are enjoying it tonight for dinner. haha.

and last, the videos people are posting now days are amazing. just by watching this video, you can feel like you’re in the barrel. not the same feeling as actually being in the barrel, but the closest you will ever get to knowing the feeling. lucky you.
only 7:30pm but i’m going to sleep. tired, sunburnt, happy, and can’t wait till tomorrow! goodnight