thank you Maki-san for sending me this beautiful photo of tokyo. i can’t wait to go there soon!!!

when ever i go to makapuu recently, i always look at the right corner and think to myself “i was pretty dam crazy to paddle from here to waikiki in the pitch dark all alone.” then 1 minute later i’m trying to look out to the horizon for molokai. and i think to myself “someday.”

Seth Moniz with the million dollar smile.

i use to hate whisky 3 years ago. but now, i drink it slowly enjoying every single smokey sip. i learned a lot of what is good, and what is bad. these are all Inaida-san’s top of the line whiskey’s and i’ve tried every one. all good for all different types of moods. i can’t wait to sip on one tonight.

last april i was in shikoku, i snapped a few photos of Dr. Sato-san. a cool doctor that surfs!

every single weekend this man is surfing.

keep on surfing Sato-san!

My Dream House!
Good morning 6:10am.
North shore 3-5′ from the North. Still bumpy and morning sickness.
South shore waist high at Ala Moana. Shoulder high at Diamond Head. Clean conditions.
Winds trades at 25mph.
Clouds, sun, showers, rainbows.
Going surfing.
Have a wonderful day!

had a great time surfing with Watanabe-san today. we paddled out to the most crowded spot on the south shore this morning and there were 3 people out. then they all went in and it was just the 2 of us. perfect long rights with long rides. score!

then we went sightseeing up on tantalus. always so beautiful!

and yes, must get the panorama shot.

we ate a hot pho for lunch. Watanabe-san has been traveling to a lot of countries so we had lots to talk about. then i asked her “where is your best trip?” she told me “hawaii.” what? it’s her first trip to hawaii and she only came yesterday. and it’s already her top 1? i was really glad to hear that!

then we went for dessert part 1. bubbies!

green tea, chocolate mint, and chocolate peanut butter are my favorite.

then we took a drive to the east side. welcome to makapuu.

then i took Watanabe-san to my secret power spot. i just love sitting on the rocks listening to the ocean, watching the waves, and just enjoying nature.

then waiola shave ice to finish the awesome day.

then swung by diamond head and i was surprised to see the waves looking good. not too many surfers out, shoulder high long rides.

thank you Watanabe-san for the amazing day and for the treats. and thank you to Hoshino-san from North Shore Surf Shop in Aichi for sending me a newborn surfer. keep on surfing!

winter wonderland in hawaii continues. i love it!