Thank you Shuudo-san and Chihiro-san for the wonderful morning surf and delicious Gouter de ROI!
Keep on surfing!

ever since i started exploring more parts of hawaii, i’ve been super happier. i thought i knew this island very good, but that wasn’t the case. to be in the middle of the mountains is amazing. super jungle, super green, and super lost. who would think i’d get lost in hawaii? i just mounted a gopro so hopefully will be able to capture some trails, views, trees, jumps, and crashes. haha.

is there a speed limit on trails? i hope not because i’m going as fast as i possibly can. i just pray there isn’t a cliff on the other side of the trees.

check this out. i was up on just one of the peaks of the many mountains yesterday. if i want to know more about hawaii, i have a long way to go.

i just found a new hobby. maybe next time i’ll take my speargun and catch a wild pig? then we can have a big BBQ!

ok, about a hundred people asked me how taiwan was. nobody believed me when i said the waves were really good. how good? this good! and if you don’t believe me, just ask Kimura-san and Hayato.

it was like a wave machine. wave after wave after wave. just non-stop waves peeling perfectly over the reef. and look how crowded it was! haha. it was actually empty!

i was expecting knee high waves to tell you the truth. so surfing overhead waves everyday was a bonus for us.

will i go back? of course i will go back! the food, the people, and the waves will take me back there over and over. but remember, i am a very lucky man so don’t expect the waves to be like this when you go there. i wish you the best of luck.

First Born.
Good morning 6:30am.
North shore 2-3′ and clean.
South shore waist high and clean.
Everywhere clean in the morning until the South/West winds come later today. Super strong onshore in the afternoon with heavy rain.
Going surfing all day.
See you in the beautiful ocean!