i had another wonderful day surfing and eating lunch with my friends from japan. instead of going out to the north shore and hassling for waves, we stayed in town, got out the longboards, and had so much fun with nobody around. it was the 8 of us enjoying wave after wave.
then i come home and upload the video and photos to my computer. i forgot to hit the upload button!!! OMG! so i disconnect the camera and delete all files!! i was screaming! i was shocked! it’s the first time i did something that careless. i frantically search online on how to get the files back. going through website after website, trying and trying, i finally gave up because most didn’t work. all i could get back were super small thumbnail images of just the start of the video. no video, no love. i’m so bummed. i lost all the great images from today. so sad.

and to think today was so beautiful made me more bummed out. here we are having the surf spot all to ourselves. this was the best images i was able to recover.

a picture perfect warm day.

i even took a video of me doing a yoga headstand. haha. i guess it will all be a blurry memory. sorry guys.
anyway, today was town, and tomorrow is country. the wind is finally going to be calm so it’s time for me to dawn patrol the north shore. getting up at 4am and hopefully get some barrels before the rest of the island wakes up. good night.

OMG! I deleted the photos from today!!! Shock! So sad.

had an awesome time with Ichikawa Koji-san and Kaimu-san. father and son surf team that just love to surf. we were driving out to the north shore but the traffic wasn’t moving so we turned around and surfed rockpiles. great call because it was so empty!

Koji-san’s been surfing for 25 years. he knows japanese surf culture so well so we were talking about the good old days. he said he use to go watch the ASP Marui Pro contests 20 years ago in chiba when guys like Derek Ho, John Shimooka, Martin Potter, and other old school surfers where there. the funny thing is i competed in those contests too. it made me feel pretty old. haha. but here is Koji-san with the very nice stylish bottom turn.

Kaimu-san’s been surfing for 6 years. surfs good but couldn’t do a cutback. before we paddled out, he asked me how to do one. i explained on the beach, he paddled out, and he did some nice cutbacks today! perfect board on the rail, perfect bending the knees, and perfect looking up. great job Kaimu-san!

we surfed until dark. as the sun set, the friday night sailboat races started. it was absolutely beautiful! Koji-san paddling for a nice set.

19 years old and enjoying the beauty of hawaii. what a lucky kid.

Koji-san on another nice wave.

we came in at dark and luckily got this photo before we left. stoked to meet another cool father and son surfing team. what a great way to create a relationship that will keep them connected forever. and omg, i need a haircut!

and thank you guys for the gouter de roi! how did you know i love this? itadakimasu!