had an awesome time with Ichikawa Koji-san and Kaimu-san. father and son surf team that just love to surf. we were driving out to the north shore but the traffic wasn’t moving so we turned around and surfed rockpiles. great call because it was so empty!

Koji-san’s been surfing for 25 years. he knows japanese surf culture so well so we were talking about the good old days. he said he use to go watch the ASP Marui Pro contests 20 years ago in chiba when guys like Derek Ho, John Shimooka, Martin Potter, and other old school surfers where there. the funny thing is i competed in those contests too. it made me feel pretty old. haha. but here is Koji-san with the very nice stylish bottom turn.

Kaimu-san’s been surfing for 6 years. surfs good but couldn’t do a cutback. before we paddled out, he asked me how to do one. i explained on the beach, he paddled out, and he did some nice cutbacks today! perfect board on the rail, perfect bending the knees, and perfect looking up. great job Kaimu-san!

we surfed until dark. as the sun set, the friday night sailboat races started. it was absolutely beautiful! Koji-san paddling for a nice set.

19 years old and enjoying the beauty of hawaii. what a lucky kid.

Koji-san on another nice wave.

we came in at dark and luckily got this photo before we left. stoked to meet another cool father and son surfing team. what a great way to create a relationship that will keep them connected forever. and omg, i need a haircut!

and thank you guys for the gouter de roi! how did you know i love this? itadakimasu!

Nice Catch!
Good morning 4:30am.
North shore 3′ and really good.
South shore knee high and inconsistent.
Light trade winds at 15mph.
Super sunny and warm day.
Clean waves all day. North shore best.
Have a wonderful day!

i can feel winter coming to hawaii. the water is getting a little bit colder, and the winds too. but once the blue sky comes out, it feels like summer again! SUP Hawaii!

yesterday was another beautiful day in the ocean. just surfing with friends and a few locals. here is local surfer Makana that surfs bowls more than anybody else. big, small, clean, rain, storm, sharks, onshore or anything, Makana is out there!

super stoked to get this shot of Takami-san catching a set at bowls. nice bottom turn!

and Toda-san with the duck dive. perfect execution!

i’ve been riding my TSSC single fin shaped by Kaysen and i’m enjoying surfing so much more. lots of speed, lots of drive, and lots of magic.

and when i push the tail, the board throws some spray and excellerates! i let about 20 of my friends try this board and they all loved it. somebody even asked me if it was for sale and i said “no way! go call TSSC and get your own!” i’m keeping this board forever.

every time Toda-san and Takami-san come to hawaii, they bring me a big box of goodies. by the 5th day, it’s all gone into my stomach. i think i just gained 10lbs. right to my stomach. haha. thank goodness i surf!
another awesome day in paradise. surfed until dark. super tired so going to sleep before 9pm. see you bright and early at 4am tomorrow morning. get ready for another awesome day!