gosh, ever since i got back from japan, it’s been like summer here in hawaii. super blue sky, warm weather, warm water, and perfect waves. been exercising, been surfing, been diving, been working, been reading books, been doing yoga, and been busy having fun. now i know why millions of millions people come to hawaii for a vacation. it’s a vacation here everyday!

do you know how you can spot a surfer? just look at their ankles. if you see white to dark tan on both ankles, it’s from socks. if you see white to dark tan on one leg, it’s a surfer. on the right, it’s regular. on the left, it’s goofy. pretty interesting yeah? that’s how i can spot a surfer even in a big city like tokyo.

when you love something, take care of her. i took the truck to my friends house for the best cleaning. thank you Reid for the awesome polish and making the truck look like brand new again. gosh, it feels good driving a clean truck! i hope it doesn’t rain forever. haha.

Matsushita-san surfed for his first time and did awesome! first wave, stood up!

perfect wave, perfect balance, perfect style, perfect happiness. keep on surfing…

Heat 1 and 2 of morning. Start 8am. Don’t miss it!
http://www.volcompipepro.com/
Good morning 6:15am.
North shore 3-5′ and clean.
South shore knee high and clean.
Winds North/West this morning changing to East later.
Clouds becoming sunny.
Have a great super bowl sunday!

Japan’s young pro surfer Shun Murakami started surfing pipeline since he was 11 years old. years after year of getting only leftovers or getting dropped in on, he kept on coming back each year. never giving up, this kid kept on getting better and better.
the north shore of hawaii is the proving ground for surfers around the world. if you make it on the north shore, you will make it anywhere in the world. if you can’t, forget your surfing career. all us surfers know that it just takes 1 wave to make you famous. well, today, that 1 wave of the volcom pipeline pro belonged to Shun Murakami.

the contest is broadcasted live around the world wide web. millions are watching, including Kelly Slater sitting right at the volcom house fronting pipeline. as he was getting interviewed for his upcoming heat, a huge set wave was approaching as Shun took off.

Shun made the vertical drop as Kelly’s attention turned towards the wave.

Shun pulling under the thick lip as Kelly says “oh….”

Shun gains full control riding the perfect line in the barrel as Kelly says “oh… my…”

Shun disappears as the world world, including myself, thinks he got swallowed up by the wave. Kelly’s silent.

Shun is gone. no way he is going to make it out. Kelly is still silent.

then you see a shadow coming from behind as Shun reappears. Kelly is saying “oh.. my.. gosh!”

then you can see Shun getting shot out of the barrel. Kelly is now wondering who the heck this kid is?

Shun gets spit out and Kelly is saying “insane!”

Shun pulling out of the wave of his life with style and grace. Kelly is smiling.

then Kelly leans forward from his chair and says “wow, that was nuts! insane! rad!” all compliments from the world champion.

think about this: you have the whole world watching the volcom pipeline pro. just by chance, Kelly Slater is getting interviewed at that time while watching the contest live. right in front of him, you have this young japanese surfer that not too many people know about. yes, Shun was just on NHK TV in japan so people there know who he is, Shun also stayed at my house the first time he came to hawaii when he was 11 years old so my family and friends know him, and surfers on the north shore know Shun too. but after getting the best barrel of the day at pipeline today in front of millions of viewers, Shun Murakami stamped his name in the world of surfing.
a great day for this kid, a great day for japan surfing, and a great day for everybody who’s been supporting Shun all these years. tomorrow he will surf in round 4 and all eyes will be on him again. i’m so proud of this kid!
wake up early, turn on your computer to 8am hawaiian time, and watch live action. first heat is John John Florence vs. Bruce Irons vs. Seth Moniz. OMG! are you joking??? no i’m not so don’t miss it!
CLICK HERE FOR VOLCOM PRO LIVE!!!