ok, 2 more days till 2015 and i don’t even have time to think! seemed like 2014 went by so fast! glad i have this blog to keep my daily journal of things that happened and are happening because it’s just too much for me to remember. yesterday seems like months ago, and months ago seems like years ago. trying to slow down but can’t seem to do it. i’m riding the endless wave and it’s so hard to get off this amazing ride!

i meet the coolest people everyday. people from all parts of japan, and all parts of the world. Mako-chan and Kawano-san have such a great relationship. surfing together must be a dream for this father and daughter team.

paddling out is always exciting. i can see the nerves, but after the first wave, it’s all gone!

Mako-chan’s first wave of the day! she did such a great job. look forward, bend your knees, and enjoy the ride.

and yes, a smile can say a thousand words. in this case, it was a great wave smile. gosh, this girl is so cute!

Kawano-san surfs really good. been surfing for 30 years and knows the history of surfing in japan. super stoked to meet real surfers as there is so much to talk about. and yes, it’s a small tight world.

when ever i take kids surfing, my main focus is safety, and happiness. essential for a great ride.

then took Team Slovokia surfing right after for surfing day 2. Jan has very good coordination and balancing skills. maybe it’s from all those years of skiing the slopes in his country. i got him on a smaller board during the session and you should have seen his face after his first wave. in surfing language, we say “pure stoked!”

then Martina kept on getting better and better too. things were going so good for us until she stepped on a sea urchin. it’s like stepping on a needle. but hey, pain is good sometimes. soak your foot in vinegar, get back up, and go surfing again. simple. surfers are tough and that’s what makes us strong both in and out of the water.

i see wedding after wedding day after day here in hawaii. i think it’s a great place and a great way to start off a new life. love is beautiful, and so is hawaii.

Justice? or Execution?
Good morning 6:15am.
North shore 2-3′ and clean in the morning.
South shore waist high and clean in the morning.
South/West winds coming later this afternoon so ugly conditions. Sunny morning but rain later this evening as storm approaches. North winds tomorrow.
Going surfing 5-6 hours today. Lucky!
Have a wonderful day!

another 5.5 hour surfing day in hawaii. super hot sun, super warm day, and super fun time. things are going by so fast that i can’t even keep up.

had an awesome time surfing with Inoue-san yesterday. a full day of surfing in what it felt like summer. super blue sky and super clean water. so stoked to see Inoue-san catch so many perfect open waves.

nice bottom turn! just keeping the board on the rail is the key to speed.

and a cutback to diamond head. thank you for the great marathon day of surfing Inoue-san!

then went surfing this morning with the coolest father and daughter. Kawano-san and Mako-chan from fukuoka got some really good waves today. such a cute relationship, and such a cute girl. we had so much fun! and the cool thing is we are going to have more fun tomorrow! can’t wait to surf with you guys again!

the best way to teach english is: hands on training. so we got to waiola shave ice and i ask Mako-chan to go and order and pay all by herself. pretty brave for a 14 year old girl but she did a great job. small cup with ice cream, rainbow flavor please. good job Mako-chan.

behind the scenes at waiola shave ice. Mako-chan waiting for her colorful shave ice.

yes, surfing and shave ice can make a kid smile. and a kid smile can make me smile. such a cute girl!

then went surfing with the Slovokian team this afternoon. great rides and great laughs. then stayed at the beach till dark, ate dinner on the way home, and i’m going to sleep. photos of yesterdays surfing coming tomorrow. i can barely keep my eyes open. good night as tomorrow will be another marathon surf day.