surfing with Masao-san and Mio-san was so fun! Masao-san’s been surfing for a while and it was Mio-san’s first time. she was so nervous when we got to the beach. we paddled out and she tried to stand up on her first few waves but couldn’t. i asked “why?” she told me that she couldn’t move her legs? what??? Mio-san told me that her legs couldn’t move. i thought that was impossible so i just pushed her on a big wave and yelled “stand up!!!” she stood up and her legs started moving again. haha. it was pretty funny but after i felt bad for laughing so hard. haha.
surfing brings out the best smile in everyone. look how happy Mio-san was when she started paddling the board for the first time.
after her legs started moving again, she surfed soooo well! i took her to the outside and she rode some big waves. a newborn surfer.
the best place to be! in the ocean!
Masao-san caught some great waves. we were in the inside watching him all morning. such a stoked surfer.
this is the shot i always try to get. hawaiian surfing memories forever! Masao-san and Mio-san riding into the sunrise of diamond head.
big guy, big smile.
thank you both for a wonderful day of surfing and laughing. Mio-san, i’m glad your leg moves again! haha!
I can't move my leg???
November 10, 2014 Hawaii Surf Report
My Next Super Yacht! Want to come to my party? Haha.
Good morning 6am.
North shore 3-5′ and clean.
Huge 15′ swell coming tomorrow!
South shore waist high and clean.
Diamond Head shoulder high and really good.
No wind in the morning becoming onshore in the afternoon.
Super clear sky and sunny warm day.
Going surfing!
Have a wonderful day!