check out this volcano that erupted on oct. 8th in sumarta. yeah, we were just in sumarta a few days before that. it’s crazy how angry nature is these days. and the volcano that erupted in japan happened recently too. personally, i’ve seen 2 live volcano’s erupt with my own eyes. i will never forget those moments. one in indonesia, and one in japan. i was in awe, and still can’t believe what i saw.

i just ate the best meatloaf made by a french chef down at the yacht club. only $7.95 and i was very satisfied!

had an awesome time with Mr. and Mrs. Ogihara.

on the way out, a cute little turtle came and stuck his head out in front of us. so i stuck my camera down and took a few photos.

so cool!

was stoked to see Keiko-san stand up on her first wave! great balance, and great surfing style. good job Keiko-san!

Yusuke-san was surfing bowls rights. just a very happy guy that loves to surf.

nice bottom turn Yusuke-san!

as my battery was going to die, i took this last shot of a girl enjoying the rights with her longboard. pretty cool photo and i hope this girl gets it somehow.
from summer 2 days ago, we went straight into winter. the rain is back, the wind is back, and the waves are pumping. waves everywhere for everyone. Go-Naminori!

OMG, Big Pipeline? NO! This is Big Japan!
Thank you Miwa-san for the typhoon photo.
Please be safe!
Good morning 6:30am.
North shore 4-6′ with 8′ sets..
Pipeline/Backdoor barreling. Little morning sickness but getting better later. South swell again!!! OMG, summer continues.
Ala Moana 2-3′ and GOOD!!!
Strong off shore trade winds at 25mph.
Super sunny sky. Warm with cool trade winds.
Going surfing!
Have a wonderful day!

i had a great time today with Kaori-chan and the Sky-A TV crew. we filmed all day long surfing, eating, hanging out, diving, and sunset. they wanted to know the kind of lifestyle i live and that was pretty much it. just keeping busy like normal maximizing every single day and every single moment. thank you for the wonderful day Kaori-chan, Maeda-san, Kawakita-san, and Kuritani-san! good waves, good food, good desert, good talk, good sunset, and good fun!

they were looking for places you won’t find in guidebooks. i knew just where to take them! check out the oxtail stew plate for $8.95. so good!

then we went for a short dive at sunset time. i’ve known Kaori-chan since she was 15 years old. i watched her surfing grow, watched her win 3 JPSA Grand Championships, and watched her live a very successful and wonderful life. such a sweet girl that i will always respect.

every friday evenings have a sailboat race. a perfect time to anchor the boat, sit back, and enjoy the perfect sunset. it was so beautiful out there today!!!!

check out these photos i found of japanese amasan’s 60 years ago. the women of the sea? the beauty if the sea? freaking amazing culture and lifestyle. i wish i could go back 60 years and relive these moments.

i had no idea amasan’s use to dive half nude. i think that’s pretty cool, and pretty beautiful. who was the idiot that invented clothes anyway? haha.