October 6, 2014 Hawaii Surf Report


Surfers? No, these are Walruses. Amazing nature.
Good morning 6am.
North shore 1′ and clean.
South shore 1-2′ and clean.
Chest high at Bowls.
Head high sets at Diamond Head.
No wind so perfect conditions.
Perfect sunny warm day.
Going naminori.
Have a wonderful day!

Last Leg: Eat Japan, Surf Hawaii

what a very long journey home from a very long trip. just glad to make it home safely.
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i was pretty shocked to find out my original flight back to hawaii was cancelled when i arrived to japan. this super typhoon was hitting japan and i needed to get out before i got stuck. usually i’d be stressed out but after my long relaxing trip, i didn’t even care what happened. things are meant to be right?
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i arrive at kansai airport starving. couldn’t eat on the 7 hour air asia flight from malaysia because the food is terrible. on top of that, you have to pay, even for water. i look around and follow my nose. it lead me to a nice hot samma teishoku. $9 and very good!
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omg, i haven’t had hot rice in a while!!!
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the miso soup was pretty good, but the lobster miso soup Matsu made for us on the boat was 10x better.
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i can eat fish everyday and never get tired of it. to me, samma tastes better than any other fish swimming in the ocean.
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and some mochi for dessert with a nice hot cup of tea.
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i had 6 hours layover at kansai airport so i ate, checked emails, watched a movie, and ate again. here was my hangout space i had all to myself. sorry to all the people that had to walk around me. haha. there was a reason i was waiting here. it’s because there was the Kamakura Ramen shop right in front. i was waiting for me to get hungry again so i could eat a ramen.
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this was my second dinner. oh so good! i was so glad to be back in japan. the best stopover country in the world!
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ok, i was in 4 different countries in the past 2 days. so getting a good seat on a fully packed flight back to hawaii was a dream come true. i was prepared to spend the night on the floor at the airport, but spending the night on the way back to hawaii was much more comfortable. i got on, told the flight attendant “i don’t need anything so please don’t wake me up.” put on my eye mask, ear plugs, and slept like a baby.
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when i woke up, i looked out my window and seen the most beautiful island in the world! Hawaii!
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i haven’t seen blue sky like this for over 17 days! just loving my drive home.
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the fresh air and my total freedom was really missed.
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then i drive by the beach and see Diamond Head going off! perfect waves with no wind. what a treat!
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all i wanted to eat was vegetables. from my experience of being on a boat for 12 straight days, i know that the fruits and vegetables don’t last that long. so my body was craving a fresh green salad. this was my lunch.
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then i unpacked. yeah, i bought back 4 bintang beers because i will drink it someday and it will bring back all my bintang memories in indo.
just downloaded over 2000 photos and video today. have some amazing images that will be shared really soon. i’ll probably have some jetlag and wake up in the middle of the night. and if i do, i’m going straight to the beach. have a wonderful evening!

Tadaima! I made it!


Back to paradise.
And good South swell with perfect conditions.
Sleep or surf?
Both!