March 18, 2015 Hawaii Surf Report


The Perfect Marriage!
Good morning 6am.
North shore 2-4′ and perfect.
South shore waist high and perfect.
Diamond Head shoulder high and really good.
No wind so epic conditions.
Super sunny and warm.
Surfing all day.
Have a wonderful day!

Chinatown Lobsters and Road Rage

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had an awesome time with the Fujimoto-san family. we surfed, ate dimsum, bought lobsters, and had a great time. Fujimoto-san surfed super good today as the waves were totally perfect. long rides and strong guy. his wife Megumi-san has a child in her stomach and i can’t wait to see their new baby son. mother Masako-san always enjoying hawaii to the fullest. such a cool and awesome family.
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this is the 2nd year in a row we went to buy lobsters. i didn’t even know this place existed. hopefully i can go there to buy a lobster someday and eat it sashimi style.
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again, great surfing Fujimoto-san and huge lobster!
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we checked out the temple in chinatown. such a cool part of japanese culture right here in hawaii.
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while the Fujimoto-san family was in the store, i was looking for parking. then seen 2 cars fighting for a stall. full on road rage as one of the ladies came out and started yelling at the other. it was crazy! i thought a knife was coming out soon. then i seen a car pull out behind me so i got out, told the lady, “hey aunty, there is a stall right in back of me, you can have it.” she said “thank you.” hey people, a parking stall isn’t worth a fight. peace guys!
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deleting photos again off my computer. but before, had to post these photos of my 2 nephews Isaiah and Seth Moniz in the local motion pro/am last year at bowls. this was the final.
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so stoked to be on a jetski in the channel watching the boys go big. here is Isaiah setting up for the big air.
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getting ready for the takeoff.
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here it goes. full control.
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keep low and keep confident.
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going into a full rotation.
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landing upside down.
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i stopped shooting from here because i thought he fell. but Isaiah ended up making this move. unreal!
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then he looked back at his younger brother Seth with a smile.
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then Seth got the best wave of the heat. setting up for the barrel.
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deep in the tube holding on.
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still deep inside the tube. i stopped shooting because i thought he fell. but Seth ended up making it out of this tube. unreal!
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and the youngest kid in the final ends up winning the contest, trophy, and prize money. it was an awesome moment for Seth as a surfer, and it was an awesome moment for me as an uncle. priceless!

SAL to NYC to SFO to LAX to HNL

i took the long way to el salvador and even a longer way back. plane rides, waiting, getting stuck, and long transits don’t bother me anymore. i just learned how to go with the flow. everything happens for a reason right?
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got stuck in SFO on the way back. so i rent a room, borrow a car, and head to the ocean. seen a pretty amazing sunset!
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is this a seagull? pelican? what ever it was, it tried to bite me when i took this photo.
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seen some fisherman down at the pier catching some very small tako. i wanted to tell this lady to let the poor baby tako back into the ocean. but she had better plans for it.
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then pulled up into the mountains and seen something running around in the tree. do you see it?
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a squirrel! cool!
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another amazing sunset watching it with the birds.
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just got some photos from my amigo. so stoked to have this beautiful time just hanging out with such mellow cool surfers.
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and stoked to see Satoko surfing better than ever. this is a perfect bottom turn girl!
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and love the spray! when my friends surf good, i feel good! great surfing amigo!
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this night was cool sitting in the middle of the street eating pupusa. not too many tourists now but i could see this place becoming like kuta, bali in 10 years. that will be sad.
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i’ve seen Satoko get hurt so many times. one time skateboarding down diamond head and falling head over heels. so this little reef cut is nothing to worry about. i’m sure she got back up and went surfing. haha.
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and stoked to see the rest of the salvador boys taking the amigos to the airport. from start to finish, all great guys.