OMG, this is so beautiful!
Good morning 6:20am.
North shore 3-5′ and coming down fast. Clean.
South shore chest high and very nice.
Light East winds at 5mph.
Super sunny and warm.
Surfing all day.
Have a wonderful day!

surfed with the big boys today. Goki-san and Kentaro-san from Nara are the 2 biggest japanese men i’ve ever met. look like hawaiians and have hearts like hawaiians.

i can’t tell you how lucky they are today. the waves, weather, and everything couldn’t have been any better. been surfing with these guys for a few years and we always have fun.

if you came out here this past week, you wouldn’t believe the waves could get like this. it’s like black and white. perfect rights coming in all morning long.

Kentaro-san got some really big and good waves. super athletic guy with great balance.

Goki-san on a big one! 51 years old and probably the strongest 51 year old surfer in the world. bench pressing 145kg and surfing hawaiian waves. awesome!

i’m really starting to like longboarding. just a whole different technique from shortboarding, but still the same feeling when you’re riding.

Kentaro-san on a really good wave! this is flawless surfing. good surfing Kentaro-san and congratulations on your hawaiian wedding day!

i love this photo of Goki-san. not a cloud in the sky with perfect style. and so stoked to be in hawaii! thank you Goki-san and want to say hello to the crew at Zenbe in Nara. hope to visit you someday!

OMG!!!! The waves were perfect this morning!!!!
Super sunny.
Super glassy.
Super fun.
Super rides.
Super Sunday!
I love Hawaii!